Surghjenti — Punta Buvone, climbing route | Pick a Peak
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Surghjenti

Punta Buvone · 1447 m · Monte Incudine Range · France
Time
4 h
Height of the difficulties
200 m
Orientation
NW
Equipment
P1+
Free climbing
6a+

Beautiful route alternating slab and steeper sections.

Approach · 40min

Park on the dirt parking area 5.1 km from Zonza in the direction of the Bavella col, 400 m after the hairpin bend. Very well described and clear approach on the paper topo.

Route

Route equipped with bolts

L16a+Start in a steep wall with a selective move right from the beginning, then slab. A last more vertical section before joining the belay station just before the platform.

Transition: walk ascending to the right for 15-20 m

L25cClimb a small dihedral, then slab to the belay station on a platform/ledge.

Transition: walk straight up then traverse right to a ramp.

L36a+Easy ramp to reach a vertical wall with a technical move using a big inverted flake/tafoni. Finish on slab.
L46aSlab.
L56a+Straight above the belay station with an athletic move then into a slightly flared crack a little to the right.
L66aSlab with a small tafoni section.

Descent · 1h

On foot, heading west, descend using the very inclined slabs and successive ledges and return to the azimuth of the foot of the route or abseil in the route Amicizia, to the east. (1h)

Then by the approach path.

Gear

  • 50 m rope, 10 quickdraws, 2-3 slings and cams from #0.4 to #1

Remarks

  • Route mainly on slab, with a few short steeper sections
  • Protection close in the 6a+ moves but farther apart in the easier climbing, which therefore requires placing a few cams or good nerve to commit

Route history

First ascent on 20/08/2001 by C. Cervoni, A. Dupaquis and JL. Fenouil (re-equipped in 2020).

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    More routes on Punta Buvone

    Amicizia

    TD 6b
    ↗ 370 m

    From the parking lot (3.8 km from the Bavella pass toward Zonza), take the forest path toward the Terraces Ridge. As soon as you reach the barrier (20 m), take the parallel path on the left. Follow this good path crossed by mountain bike tracks, pass the water intake, cross the stream, and continue…

    Details →

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0