A slab route allowing you to climb the shield of the Terraces Ridge.
3 routes climb the central shield; this is the leftmost one (the easternmost).
From the parking lot (3.8 km from the Bavella pass toward Zonza), take the forest path toward the Terraces Ridge. As soon as you reach the barrier (20 m), take the parallel path on the left. Follow this good path crossed by mountain bike tracks, pass the water intake, cross the stream, and continue west, staying level.
Leave the path before small ochre needles. Take the path on the left that climbs toward the slab shield, a faint path with several cairns.
At the shield, 3 routes, Amicizia is the leftmost.
| L1 | 6a | 30 m | 5g | Sustained slab start, then diagonally left, easier (5), unprotectable, committing. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | 6a | 28 m | 5g | Start with a crack dihedral, then on slab diagonally left, and join the chimney dihedral that you climb to the belay station. It is possible to place good protection to reduce the commitment. |
| L3 | 5c | 30 m | 6g | A balance move allows you to step right; then generally straight up on slab with holes and flakes, possibility to supplement the fixed gear. |
| L4 | 5a | 35 m | 3g | Easy but unprotectable, one will appreciate the condition of the last bolt. Belay station offset 8 m to the right, on the ledge, under the bulge. |
| L5 | 6b or A0/5c | 25 m | 3g | A blocky athletic move allows you to pass the bulge, just above the belay station. Traverse easily to the left, almost horizontal, and climb back up the shell-shaped slab to the belay station. Alternatively, after the first point, it is possible to climb diagonally left and join the belay station. |
In 3 efficient abseils: R5 > R3 (48 m) > R1 (50 m!) > R0 (30 m).
10-12 quickdraws if you supplement the gear, otherwise 6.
Camalots C4 #0.3 > #0.75
2×50 m
The TD grade takes into account the commitment and the exposure.
P. Clarac, Jean-Louis Fenouil, R Lamontellerie - 19/08/1999 (gear restored in 2020).
Pick a date to see who is going
Park on the dirt parking area 5.1 km from Zonza in the direction of the Bavella col, 400 m after the hairpin bend. Very well described and clear approach on the paper topo.
Details →Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0
