Northeast spur

Approach

From the inn in the Lis valley, follow the Mines des Crabioules trail (to the right just before the Enfer waterfall). Pass through the Enfer sinkhole, leave the Ru d'Enfer junction to the left and follow the grassy trail above the forest. After the Mines, continue on the path to the Lastoué hut. Follow the red waymarks south and east, zigzagging through the Crabioules ledges (parallel rock bars) to the start of the cirque water collection channel. Climb due south over grassy slopes towards the northeast spur.

Route

Skirt the base of the spur on the left and climb immediately to the right towards a large dihedral. Climb it to the right by "broken steps" (III-) and emerge on the right onto the ridge crest. Climb the slab that follows (grade III+). From an abseil strap, the spur becomes easy and is climbed to the right of the crest until it meets the normal route on this slope. Follow the cairns, rather to the left of the south slope crest, to a notch (grade II to exit) and then climb the scree field below the summit.

Descent

By the normal route on the Lis slope: descend by the climbing route following the cairns. Take a series of ledges to the left (north) that lead onto the moraine (where névé can persist in July). Descend the moraine then the grassy slopes to the cirque water collection channel where the path is joined.