West spur

Approach

From the Portillon hut, cross the dam and climb right on the path to the Litterole col.

As soon as possible traverse left and climb grassy ledges. Traverse left using at best a final ledge then a dreadful scree slope to a couloir which you climb on solid slabs in order to traverse left one last time. The ideal is to bypass the 1st step on the left by red rocks and return right by a large grassy ledge in order to gain the ridge line (the landmark is the cracked gendarme at mid-height). Otherwise, a couloir situated to the right of the lowest point allows you to gain the ledge (II then grade IV to exit).

Route

Start with a small wall on the right (IV) then climb the spur for 2 pitches (II and III). Gain a small col by a grassy couloir. The spur loses itself in the face: you climb right a system of cracked couloir (III+,p) then with a zigzag left, you gain a small ridge on the right which allows you to return in ascent on the left (R3 on 2 slings).

Continue on the scree as far left as possible and gain a cracked dihedral (IV). Bypass the large block on the right (V,friend1, p at the exit). Make R4 in large cracked blocks at the foot of the large cracked gendarme. Climb the crack by jamming (III+, easy to protect, remove the pack). You exit left (p). Cross the slab using the ridge for right hand and ruler for left foot (V). Mount on the becquet (left foot) and step over the crack on the right to cross the steep wall that follows (V,2p), then arrive from the left at the top of the gendarme (belay station). Descend it by its south-east slope (V,2p, delicate) and by a large stride take hold on the wall of the Lézat where you establish a belay station. Climb the wall that follows by its left edge (III+,2p) then cross the dihedral on the left (IV,p). Traverse on a ledge and make R7 in a notch.

Continue by a wall on the right (III), cross a new notch at the fractured rock and follow the ridge on the left. Make R8 at the foot of a step. Climb the slab then on the left the grassy dihedral (IV-). You exit by a scree couloir. Regain the ridge and in 2 pitches on loose rock, gain the summit (5h).

Descent · 1h-1h30

By the normal route of the Lézat and return to the Portillon hut.