Eperon Mossaz-Seigneur — Aiguille du Midi | Pick a Peak
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Eperon Mossaz-Seigneur

Aiguille du Midi · 3842 m · Mont Blanc Massif · France
Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 1500 m
Kind
Height of the difficulties
1200 m
Orientation
N
Engagement
IV
Equipment
P4

Climb the gully at the base of the Mallory - Porter, but stay left till it steepens. Continue steeply on mixed ground, initially M5, for 70m to reach a ridge. At the end of the ridge, climb two pitches up broken grey rock V to meet the median snow slope on the Mallory - Porter route. Climb this on the left hand side, until below and to the right of the seracs on the North Face of the Midi. Climb up the right hand side of these to the upper snow slopes. Climb directly up from here beside the stain coming from the toilet on the Aiguille, up to the entrance tunnel of the lift station (or to the roped track down the arete if it is equipped).

Remarks

Loose rock on the lower section.

Route history

First ascent : August 31, 1963 - Odile Mossaz, Yannick Seigneur.
En réversible

Edit : Odile Mossaz est ma mère. Je me suis permise de rectifier le nom de la voie dans ce topo, uniquement pour respecter la belle mentalité de Yannick Seigneur : il mettait un point d'honneur à faire figurer en 1er le nom des femmes avec lesquelles il ouvrait des voies ! Chirvette

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    Aiguille du Midi Martin Janner / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Wikimedia Commons

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0