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Long couloir whose difficulties concentrate on the upper part of the route.
From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the broad southwestern slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, drop onto the northern slope, and by a large traverse to the left, reach a new col (2685 m) clearly visible between Pic de l'Enfer and Pic du Haut de Coma Mitjana. This last col then gives access to the northern cirque of Pic de l'Enfer.
Approach possible over two days from Thuès via the Carança gorges and the Ras de la Carança hut; or from Prats Balaguer via col Mitja and the Ras de la Carança hut. These last two options are much longer...
Go up the debris cone of gentle slope (40°), straight down the axis of the route, then 45°. You then hit smooth slabs (55 to 65° in III+), covered with a thin layer of ice or snow, all in a system of goulottes topped by large pillars on either side of the couloir. The slabs are interspersed with small and short snow slopes, all at a steep angle (> 50°).
Follow the axis of the route as best as possible for 70 to 80 m, possibility of setting belay stations on slings or pitons.
The difficulties are short but intense; the route exits onto the northeast ridge of Enfer, above the exit of the Canal Oriental. Climb this ridge toward the summit, possible pitches of II, caution with wind slabs.
Two options:
- from the Enfer summit, return along the ridges to the east via Pic de Freser and Pic du Géant;
- head west toward the 2737 m col between Pic de l'Enfer and Pic de la Vaca, to descend due south then southeast into Coma de la Vaca (Spanish slope) and easily reach col de Marrana.
- Helmet, Crampons, double ice axes, double 50 m rope, two/three ice screws, three/four blade and U pitons, two three cams and slings.
Wait well for the spring freeze-thaw cycles to fully enjoy the line, and good snow/ice quality.
Pick a date to see who is going
From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, switch to the north slope, and by a…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes coming from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, move onto the north slope, and by…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, swing onto the north slope, and by a…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the broad southwest slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, move to the north slope, and by a long traverse to the left,…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, move onto the north slope, and by a long…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the broad southwest slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, drop onto the north slope, and by a long traverse to the…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the wide southwestern slopes from Pic del Gegant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, drop onto the northern slope, and via a long traverse to…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-westerly direction to cut across the broad south-western slopes coming from Pic del Gegant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, move onto the northern slope,…
Details →Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0