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Canal Directa
The Direct Couloir is the only route on the face that leads directly to the summit of Pic de l'Enfer.
From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the wide southwestern slopes from Pic del Gegant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, drop onto the northern slope, and via a long traverse to the left, reach a new col (2685 m) clearly visible between Pic de l'Enfer and Pic del Haut de Coma Mitjana. This latter col then provides access to the northern cirque of Pic de l'Enfer.
Approach possible over two days from Thuès via the Carança gorges and Ras de la Carança refuge; or from Prats Balaguer via Mitja col and Ras de la Carança refuge. These last two options are much longer...
Climb the debris cone of the route at 40 then 45° in the axis towards the summit.
The couloir runs between two small rocky spurs (45 to 50°), the slope then widens, and the angle decreases (40 to 45°). Leave a branch to the right that reaches the Gendarme Couloir, to continue in the axis and reach a small narrow couloir (50-55°) that continues with snow-covered rocky slabs in III. Climb them by angling to the left, following small rocky bars with overhangs to the right. You then arrive at the base of a small mixed step, cross it (60° in III) to reach small snow slopes (50-55°) just below the summit.
Two options:
- from the Enfer summit, return along the entire ridge eastwards via Pic de Freser and Pic del Gegant;
- head west towards the 2737 m col between Pic de l'Enfer and Pic de la Vaca, to descend due south then southeast into Coma de la Vaca (Spanish slope) and easily reach Marrana col.
- Helmet, crampons, double ice axes, 50 m twin rope, two/three ice screws, three/four blade and U-shaped pitons, two/three cams and slings.
J. Casamayas and R. Estrems in January 1944
Pick a date to see who is going
From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, switch to the north slope, and by a…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes coming from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, move onto the north slope, and by…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, swing onto the north slope, and by a…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the broad southwest slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, move to the north slope, and by a long traverse to the left,…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, move onto the north slope, and by a long…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the broad southwest slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, drop onto the north slope, and by a long traverse to the…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the broad southwestern slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, drop onto the northern slope, and by a large…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-westerly direction to cut across the broad south-western slopes coming from Pic del Gegant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, move onto the northern slope,…
Details →Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0