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Canal Central
From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, move onto the north slope, and by a long traverse to the left, reach a new col (2685 m) clearly visible between Pic de l'Enfer and Pic du Haut de Coma Mitjana. This latter col then gives access to the north cirque of Pic de l'Enfer.
Alternative approach over two days from Thuès via the Carança gorges and the Ras de la Carança hut; or from Prats Balaguer via col Mitja and the Ras de la Carança hut. These two latter options are much longer...
Go up the obvious debris cone, in line with the couloir (40-45°). The line quickly becomes narrower, the slope steepens (45-50°). You hit a first bulge, halfway up the couloir (55°, possible III with light snow).
Followed by a short steep snow slope (50°).
You then hit the crux of the route, a long mixed section of 50 to 60 m depending on snow conditions, it goes at 60°/III+ by slanting to the left. Its difficulty depends essentially on the level and quality of snow cover. Belay as best you can on the left bank.
Above this section, you find a snow slope at 45° which leads to the exit, marked by a short steep notch on the north-west ridge of Enfer.
Follow the ridge towards the south-east in the direction of the summit, a series of III and II+.
Two options:
- from the summit of Enfer, return along the ridges towards the east via Pic de Freser and Pic du Géant;
- head west to col 2737 m between Pic de l'Enfer and Pic de la Vaca, to descend due south then south-east into Coma de la Vaca (Spanish slope) and easily reach col de Marrana.
- two ice tools, 50 m double rope, three ice screws, three/four cams, slings and pitons.
Obvious couloir, with escape lines. Its upper section presents a large zone of relatively interesting steep mixed terrain in spring after freeze-thaw cycles.
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From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, switch to the north slope, and by a…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes coming from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, move onto the north slope, and by…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-west direction to cut across the broad south-west slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, swing onto the north slope, and by a…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the broad southwest slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, move to the north slope, and by a long traverse to the left,…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the broad southwest slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, drop onto the north slope, and by a long traverse to the…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the wide southwestern slopes from Pic del Gegant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, drop onto the northern slope, and via a long traverse to…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the col de Marrana (1h/1h30). From there, head northwest to cut across the broad southwestern slopes from Pic du Géant (Bastiments) and reach the French-Spanish border at col de Coma Mitjana (2704 m). From this col, drop onto the northern slope, and by a large…
Details →From Vallter2000 station, cross the Marrana col (1h/1h30). From there, take a north-westerly direction to cut across the broad south-western slopes coming from Pic del Gegant (Bastiments) and reach the Franco-Spanish border at Coma Mitjana col (2704 m). From this col, move onto the northern slope,…
Details →Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0