East-southeast ridge, variants — Grand Chavalard, climbing route

East-southeast ridge, variants

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Grand Chavalard · 2,901 m · Vaud Alps · Switzerland

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Grand Chavalard Maurice Perry / CC BY-SA 2.0 / Wikimedia Commons Couloir de l'Aiguille et L'Aiguille (2440m) zim27 / CC BY-SA 4.0 / camptocamp.org
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Elevation gain
1,100 m
Altitude
1,880–2,901 m
Height of the difficulties
400 m
French alpine grade
PD easy
FED4
Orientation
SE
Engagement
II
Equipment
P3

Getting there

Description

Arête ESE, variantes

Ascent

Instead of following route 1522 of the CAS guide along the south-east ridge, for variety there are 3 other options (in all 3 cases the climb is exposed, mainly to the south), namely:

  • Starting from the Erié as for route 1522 then, instead of climbing directly up the Lui Chardonne, bear left in the last trees, onto a rocky band (clearly visible above the normal path from Erié to Sorniot) and traverse a ledge (very delicate if the grass is too wet from springs) from east to west.

Once this ledge is crossed, continue climbing along the rocky cliffs until you reach a third steep couloir, the Aiguille couloir (to the left, i.e. to the west of it), climb it (and climb, 2c mixed rock and grass). Once you reach the south-east ridge you are on the 2nd section of the aforementioned route 1522 and continue to the summit normally (descent by route 1521 of the CAS guide, the normal route).

  • Starting from the Erié as for route 1521 of the CAS guide for about ten minutes until the path splits in the forest. At that point, climb the grassy slope above the trees to the only place where the rocky bar is low and easy enough to climb (2c, chain in place). Once past the rocky bar, climb a steep grassy and stony slope then follow the upper cliffs to the 3rd steep couloir, the Aiguille couloir (to the left, i.e. to the west of it), climb it (and climbing, 2c mixed rock and grass).
  • Follow the south-east ridge in its entirety (three climbing passages: a first easy one in I-II, a second short one in 2c with possible help from a cable and a third difficult but very short and with help from a cable almost essential). You then pass near the place from which base jump enthusiasts launch (around 2400 m).

Once you reach the south-east ridge you are on the 2nd section of the aforementioned route 1522 and continue to the summit normally and reach the popular summit where there is the antenna by the ridge (a little more to the left, south, of the highest point) then descent by route 1521 of the CAS guide, the normal route.

Gear

  • Possibly a helmet to protect against rockfall sent by ibex or others.

Remarks

  • Whether it is option 1, 2 or 3, it is reserved for people experienced in particularly steep terrain without possibility of belay; alpine climb with a route that is tricky to find and follow (return very tricky and dangerous if you get lost...)
  • What the Swiss national map calls "L'Aiguille" is not the true aiguille, higher up on the ridge, around 2486 m. Rather it is the promontory from which base jump enthusiasts launch.

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    More routes on Grand Chavalard

    East ridge

    PD
    ↗ 1100 m

    Begin the climb as for route 1522 in the CAS guidebook. Instead of going up the Lui Chardonne on the left to reach the ESE ridge, go up this gully on the right to reach the east ridge. Climb this steep slope to Tsonton Corbi (unnamed on national maps) at 2252 m and then to Six Riond (small climbing…

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    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0