East ridge

Ascent

Begin the climb as for route 1522 in the CAS guidebook. Instead of going up the Lui Chardonne on the left to reach the ESE ridge, go up this gully on the right to reach the east ridge. Climb this steep slope to Tsonton Corbi (unnamed on national maps) at 2252 m and then to Six Riond (small climbing passage, half-grassy half-rocky, grade 2b).

Then, 2 variants are possible:

• Climb to the 2654 m point where the ridge is stopped abruptly by a major notch whose depth cannot be determined from the summit (voids present to the north, east and south); downclimb the ridge directly to the notch (start on the north slope, exposed, II, one step of III lower down, less exposed); there is a sling at mid-height
• Climb towards the 2654 m point until about 2600 m and traverse a grassy then rocky ledge (tricky passage with gravel on smooth slabs which you definitely do not want to slip on if you don't want to end up several hundred metres lower in a few seconds...) to reach a grassy crest that rises to the left (east) of the notch and the 2654 m point which you have avoided.

Once past the notch (which can also be reached from the middle of the Lui Chardonne; there are even some hunters who get there from the vertiginous rocky north face, where you have to find your own way... best left to the most daring...) climb the east ridge (slender at this point, grade 2, watch out for certain holds or rocks that do not hold) to a flatter grassy area.

From there, continue straight ahead to the top (mixed rocks and alpine meadow) and then reach the popular summit where the antenna is, via the ridge (even more to the left, south) and descend via the normal route (route 1521 in the CAS guidebook).