Location and surroundings
The mountain is part of the Andes, specifically within the Central Andes and the Western Cordillera, which culminates in the White Cordillera. It is located in the Ancash region of Peru, within the Olleros municipality. The landscape is characterized by high-altitude terrain typical of the White Cordillera, featuring rugged peaks and glacial environments.
Neighbouring peaks
- Shacsha, peak, 5,703 m, 0.3 km N
- Cashan Oeste, peak, 5,686 m, 3.2 km N
- Pumahuacanca, peak, 5,563 m, 3.9 km E
- Cashan, peak, 5,716 m, 4.5 km NE
- Pumahuacanca Chico, peak, 5,400 m, 4.6 km E
- Uruashraju Chico, peak, 5,360 m, 5.1 km E
- Tuctopunta, peak, 5,343 m, 5.4 km E
- Rurec Oeste II, peak, 5,350 m, 6.2 km NE
Shaqsha Sur is closely situated to Shacsha, which is its nearest higher neighbor at 5,703 m.
The view from the summit
From the summit of Shaqsha Sur, several prominent peaks are visible within a 25 km radius. These include Huantsán (6,395 m) at 10.3 km NE, San Juan (5,843 m) at 13.7 km N, Ranrapalca (6,162 m) at 20.5 km N, Oeshapalca (5,888 m) at 21.5 km N, Chinchey (6,309 m) at 23.3 km N, and Palcaraju (6,190 m) at 24.6 km N.
The range
Shaqsha Sur is a member of the White Cordillera, which contains 167 named peaks. The highest point of this range is Huascarán, which reaches 6,768 m and is located 58 km to the northwest of Shaqsha Sur. Within this range, Shaqsha Sur holds the 42nd position in terms of elevation.
Climbing routes
The primary route for Shaqsha Sur is the Southeast face. This route is graded D+ on the alpine scale with an engagement level of III. It involves 1,000 m of ascent and typically requires 2 days to complete. The route faces southeast and south.
Access and starting points
The town of Huaraz serves as the usual starting point for expeditions in this area. Access to the mountain involves travel through the Ancash region, with approach routes leading toward the base of the peak.
Climate and weather
Based on estimates from NASA POWER climate data, the mean temperature at the summit is about -1 °C in the warmest month of January and about -3 °C in the coldest month of July. No month experiences a mean temperature above freezing at the summit. Precipitation in the surrounding area is about 350 mm annually, with December being the wettest month (about 60 mm) and June the driest (about 10 mm). Weather hazards in this region include sudden storms and high-altitude exposure.
Best time to visit
Given that no months have a mean temperature above freezing at the summit, the best time to visit is during the drier months of the year, which generally align with the regional dry season to minimize precipitation risks during technical climbs.
Nature and wildlife
The area around the summit is part of the Huascarán Biosphere Reserve. The environment is characterized by high-altitude alpine conditions, where vegetation is sparse and limited to hardy species adapted to cold, rocky terrain. Wildlife in the White Cordillera includes species capable of surviving at high elevations.
Guides and organised ascents
For a peak of this elevation and technical difficulty, hiring a certified guide is advisable. The Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Perú (AGMP) is the national association and a member of the IFMGA/UIAGM. Visitors often turn to established companies such as Skyline Adventures and Peruvian Andes Adventures, both based in Huaraz, for logistical support. A guided ascent typically includes professional instruction, safety equipment, and logistical planning, with costs varying based on group size, duration, and specific requirements. Huascarán National Park requires a SERNANP entry ticket and a mountaineering permit for all climbers.
Safety and preparation
Climbing at this altitude demands proper acclimatization and technical proficiency. The emergency number for mountain rescue in Peru is 105, which connects to the national police and their high-mountain rescue unit. Additional support is available through the USAM Yungay base at (043) 39-3333 or Socorro Andino Peruano at +51 943 081 066.
History and name
Shaqsha Sur is recognized as part of the Huantsan massif. It is a technical peak that is frequently overshadowed by the higher main summit of Huantsan.
Interesting facts
Shaqsha Sur reaches an elevation of 5,697 m and is the 42nd highest peak in the White Cordillera. Its nearest higher peak is Shacsha, located just 0.3 km to the north.
FAQ
What is the elevation of Shaqsha Sur? The summit reaches 5,697 m.
Where is Shaqsha Sur located? It is in the Ancash region of Peru, within the White Cordillera.
Are there huts on Shaqsha Sur? OpenStreetMap shows no hut or shelter within 2 km of the top, so climbers usually plan the ascent as a multi-day trip using their own tents.
How hard is it to climb Shaqsha Sur? The Southeast face is the primary route, graded D+ on the alpine scale, which requires technical climbing skills.
Is there water on the way to Shaqsha Sur? There are no specific springs or huts listed; climbers should carry 1.5-3 litres of water per day, or rely on snowmelt which must be treated.
Is there mobile phone coverage? Coverage in the high mountains is patchy and depends on the operator; maps should be downloaded before setting out, and 112 can be used to reach emergency services over any available network.