This is the standard and best-documented route on Huascarán Norte. It follows the northwest ridge and upper snow/ice slopes to the summit. The route is a serious high-altitude glacier climb with objective hazards from crevasses, seracs, and cornices. Conditions can change quickly, and route-finding is important on the upper mountain. It is generally climbed with one or more high camps or a bivouac, depending on acclimatization and conditions. The technical difficulty is moderate, but the altitude and glacier exposure make it a demanding alpine ascent.
