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Eiger North Face Light – that's roughly how you could describe the Iron Age ascent on the north face of the Zugspitze. The route features a tunnel entrance, a solid wall height, and many exposed sections – often with some snow (ice fields) which adds to the challenge. In the lower section, you follow the historic tunnel builders' trail, climbing on dilapidated ladders, remnants of steel cables, and exposed sections hewn into the rock until you reach Tunnel Window IV. From there, the real climbing begins, and you follow the cleverly chosen line up to the notch on the northeast ridge. The tour ends with a short rappel to the Höllental via ferrata, which you then follow for approximately 300 vertical meters to the highest point in Germany. Numerous airy passages, a historical atmosphere, and brittle rock ensure variety on this route, which will surely soon become one of the great classics of the Eastern Alps!
Iron Age (mountain guide route) through the north face of the Zugspitze
Difficulty: IV
Length: 1200 meters of climbing
Protection: Alpine protection, few bolts. Mobile protection is only possible to a limited extent. The remaining ironwork from the tunnel construction is unsuitable for protection.
Access: 2 ½ hours from the Eibsee valley station, about 1 hour from the Riffelriss stop.
Descent: By cable car or via the Stopselzieher via ferrata.
Climbing time: 6 hours
Total time: 8 ½ hours
Orientation: North.
Safety note: Route finding is challenging, alpine experience is essential, the rock is not solid everywhere (helmet must be worn!).
Alpine climbing equipment including 6 quickdraws, slings, helmet and 50m single rope. Mobile protection devices can only be used to a very limited extent.
Pay attention to the rock fall. Alpine protection, few bolts. Mobile protection is only possible to a limited extent. The remaining ironwork from the tunnel construction is unsuitable for protection.
Michael Gebhardt, Till Rehm, and Karen Thirlwell. Exploration of the Tunnelbauersteig trail in 2013, the upper climbing route (bolts) in 2014, and some refinements to the route in autumn 2016. The first winter ascents took place in February 2016. The first ascensionists found a good line from Tunnelfenster IV to the Finger (abseil point on the ridge).
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Источник: camptocamp.org · текст под лицензией CC BY-SA 4.0