Pick a Peak - list of mountains Home
← Aiguille des Grands Charmoz

South Ridge

4A | D | IV Edit route
The South Ridge is the classic and best-known mountaineering line on Aiguille des Grands Charmoz. It is an alpine rock-and-mixed route with sustained scrambling and climbing on exposed terrain. The route is serious for its altitude and position, with loose sections and route-finding issues possible. Conditions can vary greatly with snow and ice on the upper ridge. It is generally climbed as a long day from a high starting point in the Mont Blanc massif. The route is documented in standard Mont Blanc guidebooks and is one of the established summit routes for the peak.

Route Outline

Chamonix valley or Montenvers area -> approach to the Aiguille des Grands Charmoz
Foot of the south ridge -> climb mixed rock and snow sections
Upper ridge -> summit of Aiguille des Grands Charmoz
Descend by the reverse route or by an established descent line if conditions require

More routes on Aiguille des Grands Charmoz

North Face

5A | TD | V
The North Face is a major alpine route on Aiguille des Grands Charmoz and is more committing than the south ridge. It involves steep mixed climbing with objective hazards from rockfall and changing snow or ice conditions. The line is serious and requires solid alpine experience and good conditions. Route-finding can be complex, especially in poor visibility or when the face is dry and loose. It is a documented classic on the peak in well-known climbing sources. Because of its seriousness, it is typically attempted by competent parties in stable weather.
Details →