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North Face

5A | TD | V Edit route
The North Face is a major alpine route on Aiguille des Grands Charmoz and is more committing than the south ridge. It involves steep mixed climbing with objective hazards from rockfall and changing snow or ice conditions. The line is serious and requires solid alpine experience and good conditions. Route-finding can be complex, especially in poor visibility or when the face is dry and loose. It is a documented classic on the peak in well-known climbing sources. Because of its seriousness, it is typically attempted by competent parties in stable weather.

Route Outline

Approach from the Chamonix/Montenvers side to the base of the north face
Climb the north face on mixed rock, snow, and ice terrain
Gain the upper slopes or ridge leading toward the summit
Reach the summit of Aiguille des Grands Charmoz
Descend by the chosen descent line or reverse if conditions allow

More routes on Aiguille des Grands Charmoz

South Ridge

4A | D | IV
The South Ridge is the classic and best-known mountaineering line on Aiguille des Grands Charmoz. It is an alpine rock-and-mixed route with sustained scrambling and climbing on exposed terrain. The route is serious for its altitude and position, with loose sections and route-finding issues possible. Conditions can vary greatly with snow and ice on the upper ridge. It is generally climbed as a long day from a high starting point in the Mont Blanc massif. The route is documented in standard Mont Blanc guidebooks and is one of the established summit routes for the peak.
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