Schwert des Samurai

Approach · 1h

- Option 1 (gravel road): From the parking (Bödmer, 1929m) next to the farm, follow a vague path (some cairns present) which becomes more clear after a while when reaching the point above Bödmerstöckli. Then follow vague traces and cairns straight to the wall (steep path with loose rocks). After arriving at the wall, follow a good path, all the way traversing right towards the start of the route (very obvious gully directly left of the route, name of route written in red).
- Option 2 (main pass road): From the parking at the pass follow the road towards option 1. This is as fast as parking at the hotel below, has more parking space and avoids driving the gravel road.

Route · 3-4h

Generally very well bolted. When smaller than 1m80, a bolt is sometimes just out of reach when standing on a ledge.

L1: 6a. Face climbing with good holds. Bolts are more spacious than in the rest of the route.
L2: 6b. Very nice and technical face/arete.
L3: 6c. Hard roof with hidden good holds into a corner. Afterwards traverse left into another corner/slab.
L4: 7a. Very cruxy to get out of the roof. (7a+/b?) Maybe helps if you're tall.
L5: 7a. Technical face climb, hard to onsight in middle of route. Beautiful.
L6: 6a+. Start slabby, then good holds to the top, anchor on the right.

Descent

Descent by rappelling down the route. With 2x60m in 3 rappels: you can link the last 3 pitches (straight to R3), then link the next two to R1.

2003 - Hans Gisler, Heinz Müller