North Face

The Hörnli Ridge is the normal and most frequently climbed route on the Matterhorn. It is a long alpine rock and mixed climb with sustained scrambling, exposed traverses, and several steeper sections protected by fixed ropes. Route-finding is important, especially in darkness and in poor weather. Rockfall, loose rock, and congestion are significant hazards on the route. The upper mountain is steep and very exposed, with serious consequences for mistakes. It is generally climbed from the Hörnli Hut in a very early start, often as a one-day summit push from the hut.

The Lion Ridge is the classic Italian route on the Matterhorn and one of the mountain's major historical ascents. It is a serious alpine route combining steep rock climbing, exposed ridge travel, and snow or ice sections depending on conditions. The route is generally less crowded than the Hörnli Ridge but remains committing and objective-hazard prone. Fixed ropes and cables are present on some sections, but the climb still requires solid alpine movement and route-finding. The Carrel Hut is the usual high starting point for the summit push. Weather, rock quality, and the length of the descent are major considerations.

The Zmutt Ridge is one of the great classic routes on the Matterhorn and is considerably more serious than the normal routes. It is a long, exposed alpine ridge climb with complex route-finding and sustained difficulty. The route is less straightforward than the Hörnli or Lion ridges and is often chosen by experienced climbers seeking a more demanding line. Conditions can vary widely, with rock, snow, and ice all possible on the same ascent. Objective hazards and the commitment of the terrain make it a major undertaking. It is a well-known guidebook route on the mountain.

The Furggen Ridge is a very serious and highly exposed route on the Matterhorn. It is known for steep, difficult mixed climbing and a strong alpine commitment. The line is much less commonly climbed than the normal ridges and demands excellent conditions and experience. Route-finding is complex and the terrain is often severe. The route has a strong historical reputation and is documented in major alpine references. It is not a beginner's objective and is typically attempted only by very competent alpinists.