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Lion Ridge

4B | D+ | IV/V Edit route
The Lion Ridge is the classic Italian route on the Matterhorn and one of the mountain's major historical ascents. It is a serious alpine route combining steep rock climbing, exposed ridge travel, and snow or ice sections depending on conditions. The route is generally less crowded than the Hörnli Ridge but remains committing and objective-hazard prone. Fixed ropes and cables are present on some sections, but the climb still requires solid alpine movement and route-finding. The Carrel Hut is the usual high starting point for the summit push. Weather, rock quality, and the length of the descent are major considerations.

Route Outline

Breuil-Cervinia or the Italian side -> Carrel Hut
Carrel Hut -> lower Lion Ridge and fixed aids
Climb the ridge past the upper rock steps and snow slopes
Reach the summit ridge and Matterhorn summit
Descend the same route or via the Hörnli side if conditions and logistics allow

More routes on Matterhorn

Hörnli Ridge

4B | D+ | IV/V
The Hörnli Ridge is the normal and most frequently climbed route on the Matterhorn. It is a long alpine rock and mixed climb with sustained scrambling, exposed traverses, and several steeper sections protected by fixed ropes. Route-finding is important, especially in darkness and in poor weather. Rockfall, loose rock, and congestion are significant hazards on the route. The upper mountain is steep and very exposed, with serious consequences for mistakes. It is generally climbed from the Hörnli Hut in a very early start, often as a one-day summit push from the hut.
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Zmutt Ridge

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
The Zmutt Ridge is one of the great classic routes on the Matterhorn and is considerably more serious than the normal routes. It is a long, exposed alpine ridge climb with complex route-finding and sustained difficulty. The route is less straightforward than the Hörnli or Lion ridges and is often chosen by experienced climbers seeking a more demanding line. Conditions can vary widely, with rock, snow, and ice all possible on the same ascent. Objective hazards and the commitment of the terrain make it a major undertaking. It is a well-known guidebook route on the mountain.
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Furggen Ridge

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
The Furggen Ridge is a very serious and highly exposed route on the Matterhorn. It is known for steep, difficult mixed climbing and a strong alpine commitment. The line is much less commonly climbed than the normal ridges and demands excellent conditions and experience. Route-finding is complex and the terrain is often severe. The route has a strong historical reputation and is documented in major alpine references. It is not a beginner's objective and is typically attempted only by very competent alpinists.
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North Face

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
The North Face is a major alpine face route on the Matterhorn and a classic objective in the history of steep alpine climbing. It is a serious mixed and ice route with significant objective hazards, including rockfall and changing snow conditions. The line is much more demanding than the normal ridges and requires strong technical ability in alpine conditions. Conditions on the face can change rapidly, making timing and weather critical. It is a well-documented route in guidebooks and climbing literature. The ascent is typically undertaken by experienced alpinists with a solid descent plan.
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