The Hörnli Ridge is the normal and most frequently climbed route on the Matterhorn. It is a long alpine rock and mixed climb with sustained scrambling, exposed traverses, and several steeper sections protected by fixed ropes. Route-finding is important, especially in darkness and in poor weather. Rockfall, loose rock, and congestion are significant hazards on the route. The upper mountain is steep and very exposed, with serious consequences for mistakes. It is generally climbed from the Hörnli Hut in a very early start, often as a one-day summit push from the hut.
Route Outline
Zermatt or Schwarzsee -> Hörnli Hut
Hörnli Hut -> lower ridge and fixed ropes
Traverse ledges and couloirs to Solvay Hut
Upper ridge and summit blocks -> Matterhorn summit
Descend the same route to Hörnli Hut and valley