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Shorter route on the Douglas Boulder. Never difficult, nor hard to protect, but requires some wriggling in an offwidth-like corner which is interesting with crampons and ice axes!
L#| 40m| Climb 2 steeper sections to reach a belay (fixed nut + piton) on your left (hydrographic right).
L#| 25m| Climb the corner to reach a small cave where the corner goes right a bit. Make a belay here. The pitch is well protected with solid chockstones. Bring some slings!
L#| 25m| Move right in the corner and step out of it to your right after 5 to 10m to reach a snowy gully which leads to a good ledge.
(Pitch 2 and 3 can be combined easily into one pitch, although some rope drag may occur.)
Abseil the line in 2 goes, or continue to the top of the Douglas Boulder by easy ledges.
Rock gear: cams, nuts and hexes + slings for the chockstones
Good for a windy day as the chimney is very well sheltered. Also a very good route for when avalanche danger is too high to continue further up to other routes like Vanishing Gully f.e.
Pick a date to see who is going
Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0