Northeast face — Tête de Milon, climbing route | Pick a Peak
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Northeast face

Face NE

Tête de Milon · 3693 m · Weisshorn and Matterhorn Group · Switzerland
Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 450 m
Orientation
NE
Engagement
I

Route · 2h

From the Tracuit hut, ascend the glacier toward the southeast (direction of the Bishorn) to about 3360 m. Trend south toward the middle of the base of the northeast face. Climb the first slope and cross the bergschrund above it around 3500 m (rather on the right early in the season), then make an ascending traverse to the left (southeast) to 3600 m. From there, continue to the left (SSE) to the summit by easy slopes or go straight above the snowy northeast ridge, which is followed to the summit.

Descent

by the same route.

Remarks

Partly east-facing, the route quickly gets sun.

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    More routes on Tête de Milon

    ↗ 450 m

    From Tracuit hut, ascend the glacier toward the southeast (Bishorn direction) to about 3360 m. Trend right (southwest) toward the base of the ridge. Reach it by a steep and short snow couloir at about 3450 m.

    Details →
    ↗ 703 m

    From the Milon col, bypass the first section, then climb the gendarme (pitons).

    Details →
    Tête de Milon
    Tête de Milon Francofranco56 / CC BY-SA 4.0 / Wikimedia Commons

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0