Northwest ridge — Tête de Milon, climbing route | Pick a Peak
← Tête de Milon

Northwest ridge

Arête NW

Tête de Milon · 3693 m · Weisshorn and Matterhorn Group · Switzerland
Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 450 m
Height of the difficulties
200 m
Orientation
NW
Engagement
I
Equipment
P4

Ascent · 1h30

From Tracuit hut, ascend the glacier toward the southeast (Bishorn direction) to about 3360 m. Trend right (southwest) toward the base of the ridge. Reach it by a steep and short snow couloir at about 3450 m.

Follow the ridge crest, first rocky (no III) then snowy, sometimes airy, to the summit.

Ascent variant

Depending on snow conditions (steep snow couloir mentioned above invisible), it is possible to gain the rocky ridge lower down, for example on an obvious terrace around 3360 m.

Descent

- by the same route, or

- by the northeast face.

Northwest ridge
floppyd / CC BY-SA 4.0 / camptocamp.org

Route history

- 1st ascent: 23 August 1887 - Charles Cannan, W. J. Kippen, Peter-Josef Truffer.

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    More routes on Tête de Milon

    ↗ 450 m

    From the Tracuit hut, ascend the glacier toward the southeast (direction of the Bishorn) to about 3360 m. Trend south toward the middle of the base of the northeast face. Climb the first slope and cross the bergschrund above it around 3500 m (rather on the right early in the season), then make an…

    Details →
    ↗ 703 m

    From the Milon col, bypass the first section, then climb the gendarme (pitons).

    Details →
    Tête de Milon
    Tête de Milon Francofranco56 / CC BY-SA 4.0 / Wikimedia Commons

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0