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Face N
Leave the car on a terrace at the foot of a large reddish scree slope, the last one before the Estaragne valley.
From the parking, find the trail that leads to the foot of the face at the top of the talus, which it is best to climb on the right (shorter and more stable). The trail heads left (north). There is no stream on the slope from Pic Méchant to Bugatet.
Note at the center of the wall a large smooth slab bordered on the left by large overhangs and on the right by other overhangs and tortured cornices. Reach this slab: attack to the left of the plumb line of the summit by a small smooth dihedral (IVinf). Climb steps (II and III). Ascend the large slab by its left edge (line of ascent): Vinf on good rock. Exit left.
Continue directly toward the summit (III, grass and scree). Emerge on the north ridge a few paces from the monumental cairn left to us by some geodesic officer at the end of the nineteenth century.
Downclimb south along the ridge, somewhat delicate (II), to a large couloir which is descended in its bed then on its left bank to the Estaragne valley. Once at the bottom of the couloir, traverse right over scree then join traces of paths in the grass.
You can possibly bring two pitons. A few cams and friends will do the job.
Pick a date to see who is going
Ascend Val d'Estaragne preferably on the right bank on faint or unmarked paths in the direction of the low point (2702 m) of the south ridge of Cintes Blanques.To reach it most easily aim for this low point in steep and rather unattractive scree from the small lake (around 2600 m)From the 2702…
Details →From the summit of Pic Méchant, which can be reached by its normal route or by Pic des Toudes via a traverse.
Details →From the car park, follow the trail toward the south and leave it around 2200 m to continue toward the south and skirt to the right the rock bars that close the cirque on the left.You meet a trace that traverses almost horizontally toward the north-east above these bars to reach a scree slope then…
Details →Exit the A64 at Capvern. Take the road to Arreau and Saint-Lary as far as Fabian. Take the road towards the Cap de Long dam, parking the car at the Val d'Estaragne car park.
Details →On the left side of the north face axis, three large dihedrals are evident, topped by a wide terrace of scree or snow and an obvious chimney leading to the north ridge.
Details →From the parking area on the D 929 at 2079 m, Val d'Estaragne on the right bank, at 2450 m leave the Pic d'Estaragne route heading south and climb the steep combe that opens at 2600 m into the small cirque formed by the ridge of Cintes Blanques, the couloir begins in this cirque to reach…
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0