East-northeast face — Pic Palas, climbing route | Pick a Peak
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East-northeast face

Face ENE

Pic Palas · 2974 m · Balaitus Massif · France
Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 900 m
Time
7.6 h
Height of the difficulties
300 m
Orientation
NE
Engagement
III
Equipment
P4
Free climbing
5c

Little-known and remote route that allows climbing Palas by a different way than its very beautiful ridges.

Approach

By the Azun valley:

The face overlooking the Batcrabère slope of Palas, the most obvious approach is from the Larribet hut.
From there, reach the Batcrabère lakes and climb in the direction of the Port du Lavedan. Upon reaching the level of the east face of Palas, traverse as best you can to reach it and skirt it on the right to go around the east pillar. Pass the northeast chimney and reach the lowest point of the face, directly below the 2949 m peak.

By the Ossau valley:

Another approach can consist of starting on the Ossau slope, from the Caillou de Soques. You then pass through the Arrious valley and its famous Orteig passage, the Arrémoulit hut, the Palas col and finally the Port du Lavedan. Possible in a day, very long, it has the merit of bringing an even greater dimension to this relatively modest climb, making it a long journey through wild and somewhat committing mountain terrain, because by crossing the Port du Lavedan you completely change valleys and the return home cannot simply be done by letting yourself "flow" down to the car park. Crossing the Port du Lavedan tastes of casting off and you feel increasingly far from home as you progress and the hours slip by, until the return route becomes obvious: the shortest way is now to go over the top!

Route

The route is divided into three parts: a first that follows the weaknesses of the face in very good rock, the second traces across a succession of easy slabs where you move on a tight rope, the third crosses a small overhang then climbs a nice well-marked dihedral to the summit.

Descent

By the Ledormeur chimney if you came from Batcrabère, which brings you back to Port du Lavedan.
By the Géodésiens ridge if you came from Arrémoulit.

Gear

  • Cams and friends
  • Slings

Remarks

The rock is generally good, the equipment almost non-existent.

Route history

Jean-Louis Darlet, Gérard and Serge Gonzalès, Charles and Maurice Poulot on 14 August 1971.

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    More routes on Pic Palas

    ↗ 2000 m 21 km

    Classic ascent to Larribet refuge then Lac de Batcrabère and Lac de Micoulaou and follow a well-marked trail leading to the Port du Lavedan. Around 2400 m leave the path and take the broad scree slope to Col de Barane 2643 m, then bear left east to reach the summit 2703 m. Descend to the col then…

    Details →
    ↗ 700 m

    From the Arrémoulit hut, head east towards the Col du Palas. At Palas lake (2359 m), head due north to skirt around the Palas. Progress is by sight through sometimes unstable scree, threading as best you can between the rocky steps, then gradually trending east towards the Notch of the Geodesists…

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    ↗ 700 m

    From the Arrémoulit refuge, follow the trail to the Col du Palas. Before tackling the final ascent, bear left to reach directly via a large grassy step and scree the notch at the foot of the Piton.

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    Pic Palas
    Pic Palas Fipi / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Wikimedia Commons

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0