Face E
Clever itinerary that winds through the immense south-east face of Campbieil, between the Burgalasse couloir and the Fischesser spur, taking the gentler slopes down the middle directly below the summit of Campbieil.
From the Piau daily car park, descend to the foot of the Mouscades ski lift, and start climbing the Badet valley (follow the piste at first).
Towards the Moune hut, traverse and climb towards the entrance of the Burgalasse couloir (around 2150 m). Climb the couloir up to around 2250 m, where a small branch leaves to the left (frequent bergschrund).
Attack this branch, then after 20 m continue left into a small couloir facing north-east. Climb this narrow couloir inclined at 50° for about 150 m, ending in a sort of goulotte at nearly 60° for 10 to 20 m depending on snow cover. You emerge at a small col at the foot of a needle, around 2400 m. There is an equipped belay station (cord slings) on a small point to the left (often buried under a snow mushroom).
Traverse rising to the right on large slopes at 45°, very exposed above the rock bands, until you meet a less steep gully then a flat section on a shoulder, around 2550 m, at the entrance to the main slopes.
Climb these large slopes towards the couloir that runs out of them around 2800-2850 m, climb the couloir (reaching 45° for 100-150 m), and exit via the left branch (40°) to emerge at a shoulder around 3020 m, where you meet the Fischesser spur. Beware, the couloir is quite exposed to rockfall from the large cone of dejection and up to the junction.
Finish via the summit slopes, best according to snow conditions and cornices above, for example by aiming at a col 150 m to the left of the summit. Section at 50° for 50 m.
By the same itinerary. 25 m abseil at the start of the lower couloir.
50 m rope.
First ascent/descent unknown, mentioned in the guide Ski de pente raide dans les Pyrénées.
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Unstaffed hut · 2,128 m (1,045 m below the summit) · 12 beds
Unstaffed hut · 2,285 m (888 m below the summit) · 6 beds
Unstaffed hut · 1,910 m (1,263 m below the summit) · 4 beds
Unstaffed hut · 2,199 m (974 m below the summit) · 8 beds
Unstaffed hut · 2,495 m (678 m below the summit) · 8 beds · Club Alpin Français de Lourdes-Cauterets
10 beds
Mountain hut · 1,870 m (1,303 m below the summit) · 80 beds
Unstaffed hut · 2,160 m (1,013 m below the summit) · 12 beds
Unstaffed hut · 1,750 m (1,423 m below the summit)
Unstaffed hut
Unstaffed hut
Unstaffed hut · 2,099 m (1,074 m below the summit) · 4 beds
Unstaffed hut · 2,005 m (1,168 m below the summit) · 2 beds
Mountain hut · 2,153 m (1,020 m below the summit) · 60 beds · Club Alpin Français
Unstaffed hut · 1,829 m (1,344 m below the summit)
Unstaffed hut · 1,830 m (1,343 m below the summit)
Unstaffed hut · 1,606 m (1,567 m below the summit) · 3 beds
Unstaffed hut
Unstaffed hut · 1,765 m (1,408 m below the summit) · 6 beds
Shelter · 2,100 m (1,073 m below the summit) · 2 beds
Unstaffed hut · 4 beds
Unstaffed hut · 2,151 m (1,022 m below the summit) · 5 beds
Mountain hut · 2,145 m (1,028 m below the summit) · 35 beds
Shelter
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From the Piau station, climb to the col 2678 north of Lenquo de Capo.
Details →From Piau-Engaly station, descend into the Badet valley and pass on the left bank.
Details →We start at the point where the road climbing towards Lac de Cap de Long crosses the Estaragne stream. We go up the bottom of the valley and look for the slopes directly below Estaragne's summit, perfectly visible at the back and slightly to the right. We cross a marked stream that allows us…
Details →From the lower car park of Piau Engaly ski station, reach the foot of the Mouscade ski lift by the ski slope. Follow the Badet and cross it at one of the 2 footbridges under the slope. Ascend the Badet valley following the south face of l'Estaragne then du Campbiel. Climb to the right to the…
Details →From the lower car park of Piau Engaly ski station, reach the foot of the Mouscade ski lift by the ski slope. Follow the Badet and cross it at one of the 2 footbridges under the slope. Go up the Badet valley following the south face of Estaragne then Campbiel. Climb to the right to the foot of the…
Details →Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0
