Down7 — Waldeckspitze, climbing route | Pick a Peak
← Waldeckspitze

Down7

Waldeckspitze · 1916 m · Vaud and Freiburger Prealps · Switzerland
Height of the difficulties
190 m
Orientation
SW
Engagement
I
Equipment
P1
Free climbing
7c

Approach

From Oberi Bire or Oberberg follow the path that runs along the chain north-east or south-west respectively.

At a small gravel pit, go up the scree to the foot of the face and follow it along to find the routes.

The start is left of the single-pitch sector: on a small separate wall below a grassy ledge is the route's first bolt.

Route

L16b+A short traversing move, then up a greasy crack, belay left of the ledge.
L27bTechnical and method-dependent, on fine yellow limestone.
L3A0 then 6a+The "adventure park" pitch, traversing right from one bit of cord to the next; 9z free?
L47a+One physical move in the middle, the rest sustained.
L57cSplendid, big pockets and small holds on a slight overhang, well bolted.
L66c+Outstanding!!! It feels like Demi-Lune but without the polish, and what an atmosphere!
L76b+A short traverse and a finish in a crack; be careful, the rock below the summit is much less sound. Steps lead to the summit from the final belay, with a bolt to belay from above.

Descent

In 4 abseils of a good fifty metres:

R1Summit >> R6
R2R6 >> R4, hanging free
R3R4 >> ledge
R4Ledge >> ground

Remarks

  • A very fine route; the 7c and the 6c+ are worthy of Ceüse.
  • Now and then you can hear an alphorn while climbing.

Route history

First ascent 1999, B. Castella, J.-M. Pauchard.

Plan a climb

Pick a date to see who is going

Planned climbers
—
Planned: 0
    Sign in to plan a climb

    More routes on Waldeckspitze

    ↗ 300 m

    From Oberberg car park, follow the trail heading south-west which joins the main trail. Continue south-west to the scree field. From there, either climb directly up the scree or make a detour by continuing on the main path and turning right onto a footpath.

    Details →
    ↗ 350 m

    From Oberi Bire or Oberberg follow the path that runs along the chain north-east or south-west respectively.

    Details →
    ↗ 350 m

    From Oberi Bire or Oberberg follow the path that runs along the ridge towards the northeast or southwest respectively.

    Details →

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0