Brenva spur

5 parts :

Identical to the Cascata Major. We reach the base of the rocks called "de la Poire" (seracs...and that is only the beginning).

From the Eccles bivouac gain the upper Brouillard plateau, several possible abseil anchors if, then broken glacier.The attack on the End of the world is made up of a beautiful grey slab streaked with a crack. Cross the bergschrund on the left. (The historical Bonington attack crosses the Hyper…

- To Pointe Louis Amédée (1h30 to 3h depending on whether the ridge is dry or mixed).- Brouillard ridge to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur. Do not stray too far from the ridge line and follow the crampon tracks on the rock.- Go around Mont Blanc de Courmayeur on the left and join the broad slopes to the…

From the parking lot at the end of Val Veny (1572 m), follow the trail that passes through Frêney (start of the access path for Monzino) and leads to Lac des Marmottes (1959 m; note that the trail from the Chalets de Miage no longer really exists). Continue for a few hundred more meters on the…

From the Quintino Sella refuge / bivouac, climb the snow or ice slope above the refuge. Once the slope is climbed, you are above the basin of the Mont Blanc glacier. Step onto the glacier and climb it towards the cirque.

Start to the right of the east Central Pillar, climb a small chimney in the line of the couloir of "Frêneysie Pascale" (several pitons, mixed passage (4), beware of rockfall), then traverse easily right until against a step, climb it directly (flakes and crack, 4). Then climb a not very…

After crossing and descending the Moore col (3 rappels) on the Brenva glacier, cross the bergschrund as best you can to reach the start of the goulotte.

From the Eccles bivouac, cross the mixed then snowy slopes on the Brouillard side of Pointe Eccles to get onto the Brouillard glacier.Climb to Eccles col by a fairly steep couloir. A little north of the col, find rappel rings. Descend on the Frêney side, possibly using the rappels, for about sixty…

From Rifugio Quintino Sella, two options:

From the hamlet of Peuterey in Val Veny, climb to *Refuge de la Noire* (Bivouac *Borelli Pivano*) (*1h30-2h*) and from there, reach the foot of Pointe Gamba, start of the south ridge of the Noire.

This long traverse begins with the climb of the east ridge of the Aiguille Noire: easy terrain but where you still need to know how to find your way. No particular difficulties. Then follows an audacious descent by rappels (8), initially shared with the Ratti - Vitali route, then continuing in a…

(https://aosta.arriva.it/en/courmayeur-mont-blanc/) allows you to reach Val Veni (get off at the picnic area).Start from Freiney - Chalet du Miage, in Val Veni (1590 m, large parking lot next to the river). From there, one can easily cross the river (bridges) in the direction of Refuge Monzino.

Start from Val Veny. Climb to the Monzino refuge by the summer path. Climb to the Eccles refuge by the normal route of the Brouillard glacier.From Eccles make a rappel and descend onto the glacier at the foot of the goulotte.

From Val Veny, climb to Refuge Monzino (2h) and from there, climb back up to the col of the Innominata. From the col, downclimb about 10 m to reach the first chain belay on the left. A sequence of 2-3 rappels makes it possible to reach the Freney glacier. Climb the glacier on its right bank for…

10 m from the upper bivouac, rappel to reach the steep slopes to climb toward Col Eccles; the bergschrund passes on the right.

Go up to the Durier refuge via Plan Glacier (F), or via the Dômes de Miage (PD). It takes the whole day!

From the Freiney parking lot in Val Veni (1570 m), cross the Doire and take the marked path to the Monzino refuge. It crosses a confluence, then branches left into a scree field. Aim for a white square painted on the rock to the left of a waterfall, then take the via ferrata.From the Monzino…

Reach the Quintino Sella refuge.

Start from the Quintino Sella refuge.Follow the cairns to descend by ledges onto the glacier. Climb it, staying left (40°, crevasses), to a broad snowy saddle. Descend on the other side, staying left (crevasses), and cross the plateau that follows, towards a rocky rib (point 3620). Pass above this…

Cross and descend Moore col on the Brenva glacier.

From the Aiguille de Midi or from Punta Helbronner, head across the Plateau de Géant to the Combe Maudite, which is climbed up to the rocky wall that forms the Brenva ridge. Spot the Fourche, a characteristic formation of 3 rocky pinnacles, reached from the right by a snow couloir, steep in its…

From the Aiguille du Midi or the Pointe Helbronner, reach the Fourche bivouac via the Cirque Maudit. Climb directly under the Fourche col, about 200 m to the right of the Ghiglione cap, by a clearly visible slope below the gendarme of the Fourche. Thus arrive on the ridge 20 m from the…

Climb to the Gonella hut

The previous night, it is more comfortable to sleep at the refuge des Cosmiques, which makes it possible to get into the mood (talking about acclimatization would be presumptuous) and not have to descend the ridge of the Aiguille du Midi after the 1^st cable car cabin.

There are several ways to get to the Tete Rousse hut.1. The most popular is to take the Bellevue Telecabin from Les Houches and then the Tramway du Mont Blanc up to the Nid Aigle. From there follow the well used track on the left, up to under the Col des Rognes, (and the little shelter…

Climb to the Quintino Sella refuge on the 1^st day starting from the Visaille canteen (1650), pass by Lake Combal then join the right bank of the Miage glacier which you then ascend in its center to the junction with the left branch of the Mont Blanc glacier.Ascend the right…

Reach the refuge of the Grand Mulets (3051m) by one of the two routes:

From Plan de l'Aiguille (access by cable car of the aiguille du Midi 1^er section) Step onto the glacier des Pèlerins, head toward the glacier des Bossons by a traverse under the Aiguille du Midi cable car without losing altitude.Then pass under the line of the old cable…

From the village of Bionnassay, reach the col de Tricot. Climb Pointe Inférieure de Tricot directly by the line of the WNW ridge (chamois terrain, 3-4h).Continue with easy climbing (II) to Pointe Centrale (2h), sometimes by the airy ridge, sometimes by scree slopes. Good bivouac spot below the…

From Plan de l'Aiguille (access by the Aiguille du Midi cable car, 1^st section), step onto the glacier des Pèlerins, head toward the glacier des Bossons by a traverse under the Aiguille du Midi cable car without losing altitude.Then pass under the line of the old cable…