Going up the road beyond the sanctuary of San Magno, follow the imposing face of Rocca Parvo on the right. Park in one of the pull-offs along the road.
Go down a short slope that leads to the meadows below the face and climb the next scree slope to the base. The route starts in the middle of the north face at an oblique couloir chimney heading to the right, which is on the right edge of a wide band of compact overhanging slabs with light-dark stripes. Handmade yellow bolt visible.
| L1 | 6a+ | 50m | Ramp to the right then straight up, go straight over the little wall and then on the right the wedged block; belay station a little beyond. |
|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | 5c+ | 40m | Cross the couloir to the left then straight up on wall-slab; exit the dihedral and pull straight up to the belay station; no bolt after the dihedral. |
| L3 | 4+ | 45m | From the belay station climb more or less straight up on easy rock; only two bolts, one of them 2 meters before the belay station. |
| L4 | 6c | 25m | Start traversing to the right then straight up, slight traverse to the left, then straight up again along two cracks. |
| L5 | 5b | 40m | Wall then couloir blocked by a big block, athletic exit onto a ledge. |
| L6 | 5 | 50m | Wall slightly to the left then couloir that climbs diagonally to the left then ridge to the right. |
| L7 | 4 | 40m | Ridge for a few meters, once at the notch, traverse to the right for 4-5 meters, climb the notch and then the wall-dihedral to the left, exit onto a ledge, traverse slightly to the left and take the donkey's back that leads to the top; no protection in place, belay to be set up on a spike. |
By tracks and scree slopes, in 20min you return to the packs.
- 10 quickdraws, nuts and a few small-medium cams; but the rock does not offer much possibility for protection.
Rock mostly good, friable on the easy sections. Route equipped with bolts, bring a few nuts or cams if needed.
Route opened by Gigi Garro and Spirito Pettavino on 07-08-2007.
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0
