Arête SE
From the refuge, take the northwest path that rises gently. Cross the torrent on a concrete structure and grates. Further on, around 2320 m, the path splits into two parallel branches that follow the confined torrent. The right-hand path (left bank) is more practicable. At 2500 m, reach the place called Sand Boden: a broad horizontal esplanade, dotted with a few large granite blocks.
From there, continue northwest following a vague track and cairns that lead to the Taminser Gletcher, which you ascend a little on the left bank. Around 2700 m, zigzag up the steep slopes on your right and reach the start of the ridge at 2900 m. Continue to 3000 m. You arrive in front of a first block: ideal place to gear up. At the end of the season, you can leave the ice axe there.
Follow the ridge preferably on the crest, the rock is better there. Bypass a first gendarme on the left and regain the ridge with 2 climbing pitches of 3 and 4-. The ridge continues at the same difficulty. The bolts are not always well placed, nor easy to find. Do not descend toward a small couloir on the right, stay well on the crest. You arrive at the top of the ridge at a small col (3150 m) next to the Vorder Ringel. From there, descend slightly to the left following a track then climb back up toward the summit block, which you climb by a few moves of 4. 15 m of climbing, 3 bolts and a cable.
By the same route. A few rappels, more or less well placed, make the descent easier.
Other descents are possible: ask the refuge keeper (and local guide).
- 1×45 m rope
The climbing takes place on acceptable rock, but you must not leave the route or you will end up slogging through unstable schist.
It is not always possible to place protection, and the few bolts in place are not always well positioned.
Pick a date to see who is going
Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0
