Southeast ridge — Trotzigplanggstock, climbing route | Pick a Peak
← Trotzigplanggstock

Southeast ridge

Arête SE

Trotzigplanggstock · 2954 m · Urner Alps · Switzerland
Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 700 m
Height of the difficulties
200 m
Orientation
SE
Engagement
II
Equipment
P1+
Free climbing
4c

A very well equipped ridge, in 12 short pitches, at an accessible grade and, to finish, in a grand setting.... what more could you hope for? Ah yes, the rock: excellent.

Approach · 1h40

From the Süstlihutte refuge, follow the very good path marked Trotzig or Grassen. Follow the blue and white arrows that lead to the start of the valley between the Trotzig and the Murmets. Go up this valley (an old glacier completely covered with rocks) to a notch, you are then at the start.

Route · 3 to 4h approx.

Start left on easy little steps to reach the 1st spit, R1 is then a little hidden far right. The rest follows calmly along the ridge for 12 pitches (+ a transition after L2), with good belays and spits at the climbing sections (4 to 5 on average per pitch of 30 to 45 m: this is not exactly a climbing school).

Descent · 2h15

The descent is marked in red from the top (beware of not going too far, the route continues on the next summit). There are also many cairns with a few downclimbs and 3 rappels, we arrive at the start where we could have left ice axe and crampons (1h15). Return to the refuge by the way up (1h).

A la fin du sentier, on remonte ce valon. L'attaque est au col, coté gauche.
A la fin du sentier, on remonte ce valon. L'attaque est au col, coté gauche. — Daniel / CC BY-SA 4.0 / camptocamp.org

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    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0