Northeast ridge — Le Petit Roux, climbing route | Pick a Peak
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Northeast ridge

Arête NE

Le Petit Roux · 3034 m · Ecrins Massif · France
Engagement
II
Equipment
P4
Free climbing
3c

Aerial rock ridge in Oisans.

Route

From the summit of Petit Roux (which can be reached by its north ridge), downclimb the ridge towards the south-west to reach the col du Petit Roux (2 sections of III, 30min).

From the col du Petit Roux, continue along the ridge on the crest. The ridge is at first easy then steepens considerably to reach the spot height 3257 on the IGN map (section in III). From there it is easy to reach the summit. Approximately 3h.

Descent

  • Down the Lanchatra valley. This is the most delicate part. Reach the névé aiming as much as possible to the right. After that it is easy.
  • Down the Muzelle Glacier.

Gear

Crampons and ice axe can be useful depending on the condition of the névé below the col Jean Martin on the Lanchatra side. They are essential for the Muzelle Glacier.

Remarks

  • You can also start from the col du Petit Roux, but access to this col is very loose. It is faster and safer to go via the summit of Petit Roux.
  • You must stay as much as possible on the crest of the ridge; the rock there is much sounder.

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    More routes on Le Petit Roux

    ↗ 1843 m

    From the Plan du Lac hut, climb to the village of Lanchatra. at the exit of the village, take the path that climbs to the right in the forest towards the col de La Coche.

    Details →
    ↗ 1852 m

    Go up the Lanchâtra valley, then the goat paths, aiming for the large yellow overhang coming off the ridge. Ascending to the left, you arrive at the edge of a couloir that runs alongside the pillar of the ridge.

    Details →
    ↗ 1860 m

    From the Gîte d'étape du Plan du Lac, cross the Vénéon via a footbridge, and follow the path to the hamlet of Lanchâtra (1430 m). Then follow the valley of the same name along the stream, first on the left bank, then on the opposite side after crossing a bridge (1591 m).

    Details →

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0