East ridge

Of the same calibre as the Canard-Arias traverse, with the added benefit of real pitches of solid rock climbing (and a descent considerably less of a pain).

Approach · 3h

Go up the Lanchâtra valley, then the goat paths, aiming for the large yellow overhang coming off the ridge. Ascending to the left, you arrive at the edge of a couloir that runs alongside the pillar of the ridge.

Route · 7h

Continue on the left bank of the couloir via 2 rocky steps, until you come up against a wall. The abseil to the right is tempting but hard to protect. We skirted the ridge to the left, taking the small overhang directly (fine pitch, 4+ continuous, 5+ for one move). Traverse the couloir, then reach the crest of the ridge via 2 fine pitches slightly to the left (4, then 4+). You arrive at the 2805 m point, where the ridge flattens out and reveals itself in all its glory (3h).

Wide at first, the ridge narrows until it becomes almost sharp at the gendarme 2889, which you downclimb. The ridge then turns at a notch. Short abseil (5 m) but mandatory (on a sling, for your information). Ascent facing (1 short pitch of 4). Continue along the crest until the junction with the branch that goes up to the summit. A fine dihedral (4+) allows you to pass the last gendarme. Traverse to the right slightly below the crest in a zone of sharp, loose gneiss (sketchy), then climb back to the crest ascending to the left (very sketchy). Continue along the crest (a few pitches of 4) to the summit (4h).

Descent · 3h

Descend towards the Barry's foot summit via easy rocks, then the ridge path to the Col de la Coche, and return.