Arête des Espadas
From the Angel Orus refuge (2110 m), first take the path leading towards Col d'Eriste, leave on the right the marked fork towards the normal route of the Posets at around 2500 m, and reach Lake (*Ibón*) de Llardaneta (2630 m). Follow the lake a little along the left bank by the path until you can leave it on the right to climb back up (path traces in places) a large couloir (35° - 40°) with little grass and stones, opening out around 2850 / 2900 m at the foot of Diente Royo (3011 m). A good part of the Espadas - Posets ridge is then visible.
Two options: either climb directly to the unnamed col just north of Diente Royo, or, shorter, traverse with a slight ascent to the right to reach Paso del Tucon Royo (3077 m), clearly visible from below (path traces in the dark scree). Fairly pleasant slopes of earth and small stones to cross.
The first part of the ridge that joins Paso del Tucon Royo is easy (walking) but allows you to do two more "3000" peaks (Dent Royo and Tucon Royo or Pavots, 3121 m) (3h to the col).
From Paso del Tucon Royo, obvious route: follow the ridge to the summit of the Posets without ever leaving it! You successively cross the Espadas (3332 m), Tuca de Llardaneta (3311 m) and Tuqueta Roya (3273 m) before arriving at the summit. Big mileage (2 km) but lots of easy walking sections, interrupted by steeper zones. The most airy part is on the ascent of the Espadas, with a small step in III (chimney crack). Another somewhat delicate passage is found before the next summit (short dihedral in II+/III, on the left, therefore on the north slope of the ridge, cairn at the foot). The rock is loose in the walking sections but solid where you use your hands; overall it is pleasant to cross. The final climb to the Posets is a hike in the scree. Allow 2h30-3h without hurrying for the ridge from the col to the summit.
By the normal route on the south slope of the Posets, you rejoin the approach route a little below the lake. (2h30 from the summit to the refuge).
Small 20 m rope, a few slings and carabiners. You can do without it if you are comfortable soloing the (small) III, but some sections are still quite airy.
Crampons and ice axe at the start of the season to descend the normal route of the Posets.
- Magnificent royal traverse to reach the 2e Pyrenean summit. Technically easy, always enjoyable, with an endless panorama over a good part of the 3000s of the massif and the Aragonese plains far away.
- Beware, now (2016) from 1er August until 11 September, the track is closed to tourist vehicles. Only the shuttle buses put in place are allowed, with very widely spaced schedules and a capacity sometimes insufficient for the mass of hikers and mountaineers setting off. Fare: 10.50€ round trip.
- (gallica.bnf.fr) (on the descent, as far as Col des Pavots): 10 August 1905 - Louis Le Bondidier, Louis Camboué, Jean-Marie Carrère, Jean-Marie Sansuc.
- First ascent (from Col d'Eristé): 2 July 1914 - Henri and Roger Brulle, Germain Castagné, Henri Motas d'Hestreux.
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From the collado de la Paul, the ridge is allows you to climb the summit of the Posets by joining the north ridge (normal route from Viados).
Details →From Col d'Eriste, follow the ridge north, first on the east slope to cross 3 small points. Downclimb (II) the last one to reach a narrow section below the step of Dent Royo (3010 m). The 20 m step is avoided by a short obvious ledge on the west slope, then a quick ascent on the face to regain…
Details →From the Viados refuge follow the summer route to the Posets peak (trail marked on the Spanish map). Around 3000 m you can see the objective.
Details →From Biadós (1740 m), follow the GR11 to the last barns then cross the rio d'Añes Cruzes (footbridge) to climb its left bank by a track to the cabane des Clots (or cabaña de la Basa, 1980 m). Climb in the woods behind the hut on a vague ridge, trying not to get too lost. You can also head…
Details →From the Espigantosa parking lot, follow the trail that first runs along the torrent through the forest then climbs on the left to the Ángel Orús refuge.
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0
