South ridge

South Ridge of Roc Colom climb (PD IV 80m, partly equipped), starting from Refugi de Malniu, ascent via Refugi Joaquim Folch i Girona, Portella de Meranged and reaching the base of the route. Descent via reaching first the Puigpedros summit and descending to Refugi de Malniu.

Approach

Circular loop route. Start at Refugi de Malniu (2,130m) follow direction west, under the south slope of Puigpedros, following GR-11 until Refugi Joaquim Folch i Girona (Engorgs)

Then continue direction northeast, until the base of Roc Colom, start of the route. In winter conditions crampons and ice axe are needed in the ascent.

Ascent

Rating: PD IV

Length: 80m

Traditional climb following cracks and big granite blocks. Grade III/IV, divided in 3 pitches. Partially bolted routes. Possible to climb with in-situ bolts, but additional cams and nuts can be handy in all pitches. Anchors partially bolted, good for abseil (attention with windy conditions).

P1: III+ and II, 1 parabolt 20 meters.

Start on the col, follow the crack on the left, the first and only bolt of the pitch is clearly visible (there is another bolt more to the left, but not needed). Then follow the crack (might be useful to place some protection), reach the grassy ledge, where the anchor is (one piton and one parabolt).

P2: III+, II and IV, 5 parabolts 30 meters

Start right to the anchor to go over the block, continue left of the tree following the bolts (easy terrain grassy ledges). After that two options.

Option A: follow the bolts in diagonal to the left and then exit to an easy slab to reach the anchor at the right.

Option B: continue vertically and towards the blocks at the right, no in-situ protection so useful to bring some cams and nuts. Start right to the dihedral, and continue right to the slightly overhang blocks, to reach some cracks and go up to reach the anchor (one piton and one parabolt).

P3: III+ and III, no protections, 30 meters

Start to the left slightly and follow vertically the rocky ledges (difficult to place any protection, few slings around rocks are possible). Follow the more logical path to reach the anchor (old slings and one parabolt). Continue very easy climb (no rope needed) to reach the summit few meters away.

For the abseil line, follow the same anchors (to reach from belay station 2 to belay station 1 30 meters are just exactly enough).

Descent

Continue the ridge till Puigpedros (2,915m) then descend direction south until Refugi de Malniu.

Total

Height difference: 950m