East needle, south ridge

Route traversing the south ridge of the needle backed against the eastern flank of Pic d'Astazou.

Approach · 2h30

From the Tournaboup car park, follow the itinerary (/routes/988821/) to the Combe de Listres in the direction of Hourquette d'Aubert. Skirt Lac d'Estagnol to the south, then climb towards the ridge.

Route

The route starts slightly right of the crest, in an orange chimney dihedral. Climb it by clean V-shaped fissures then exit left.

Establish belay station on the ledge at the foot of the next step (35 m).

Climb the V-shaped dihedral on the left, at its exit traverse right to find a wall well-supplied with holds. Belay on a ledge, (40 m, 1 piton).

Climb above the belay, then make a descending traverse just after the piton to find a fissure leading to a notch. Resume the crest line (1 piton). Belay on a wide ledge reached on the left (40 m).

Continue on the crest, climb a cracked wall. At the end of the flat section, head back onto the eastern slope on a wide inclined ledge and set up a belay at the foot of a thin fissure (45 m, 2 pitons).

Climb into the cracked dihedral. A1 climbing. 5 pitons in the pitch. Establish belay at the exit of the dihedral (25 m). Climb the ridge to the summit. A 30 m abseil allows reaching a col on the western slope. From there, descend the gully to the foot of the route.