Acqua concert
Cross the Émosson dam, then at the first sign follow the path to the Loriaz chalets. Once past the first rock with chains (unnecessary), you reach a second rock fitted with chains, which you leave about 150 m further on after passing a small scree. Climb a narrow but well-marked trail towards the Aiguilles du Van, hemmed in by rhododendrons and bilberries. A few cairns in place. Once level with the start of the ridge, shortly before a rock band, traverse to the right (a cairn) and reach, by a vague trail, the faint ridge on the right, just past a very narrow little gully. Look carefully and you will make out a few bolts.
| L1 | 5c | 40 m | 8 | A traverse to the left towards the small gully. R# is visible from the ground, above a small step near the gully. Reach it by a horizontal traverse to the left. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | 6a | 35 m | 8 | Probably the crux of the route, a few friction moves. |
| L3 | 6a | 45 m | 7 | A very fine pitch; the 6a difficulties are concentrated on a 10–15 m wall that is properly steep and not very juggy. |
| L4 | 5b | 45 m | 6 | The pitch finishes below a half-grassy, half-rocky area. |
| Walk 50 m along a grassy bench: climb a few metres, then turn left. | ||||
| L5 | 5c | 40 m | 12 | A superb pitch with 2 fairly steep corners with good holds and good footwork. |
| L6 | 5b | 35 m | 6 | A traverse to the left along a system of flakes. |
| L7 | 5b | 40 m | 8 | A pleasant, not very sustained pitch. You can escape by a ledge to the east (see the Hervé Thivierge topo). |
| L8 | 5c | 45 m | 7 + 1 thread | The last pitch on the pillar, with some difficulties concentrated halfway up on a 10 m wall. The last point is an equipped artificial thread. |
| L9 | 5b | 40 m | 3 + 1 piton | Climb straight up easy steps, then cross a gully to the left, climb straight up a wall, then to the right. |
| L10 | 3c | 45 m | 0 | Climb steps, rising to the left, pass a small wall (1 jammed nut), then more steps. R# with 2 bolts slightly below the ridge (traces of passage). |
| L11 | 3b | 70 m | 0 | Climb as best you can to the summit, avoiding the grass and the black lichen as much as possible. |
From the summit, go down to the south-east (there is a trail below), then south towards the gap between the two Aiguilles. Easy but slightly exposed in places, with the earth and the rock bands.
Go down from the gap to the east in an earthy/rocky gully, a little exposed in places.
Pick up a trace of a trail that goes off to the left to descend a 1st rock band and reach a scree lower down (beware early in the season, you may find a big, fairly steep snowfield in the scree).
Cross a 2nd rock band, rather to the left, in the middle of the scree (a few downclimbing moves). Pick up a path on the right of the scree. Pass a 3rd rock band (a few exposed downclimbing moves, 2 bolts) and rejoin the approach route.
From the summit, carry on with the east-west traverse of the Perrons de Vallorcine
First ascent: 16 June 2004 and 11 July 2006 — Michel Piola, Florian Schemel.
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Follow the approach of the Perrons traverse until you have crossed the base and reached the hanging cirque, which you climb a further 100 m or so. Traverse to the left to gain the northeast ridge.
Details →Follow the Heubi couloir itinerary (CAS guide it. 1163) to 30 m below the western ridge notch.
Details →Start from the Émosson dam heading towards Vieux Émosson, take the Loria trail to the left and leave it a few minutes after the Passet col. Climb on a faint trail towards the Van needles, surrounded by rhododendrons. A few cairns in place. Around 2020 m, facing the needles and at the foot of a…
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0
