À mi dalles
A route that traverses the southeast-facing slope of Mont Béas via a connection of superb slabs interspersed with 2 grassy ledges.
Park at the junction between the Col d'Agnès road and the Ruisseau du Vallon du Pic de Lanote stream. Climb the valley following the right edge upward until you cross a small cairn, then take the path into the forest trying to maintain the contour line to aim just above the Gouffre George (on the IGN map), stay on the upper meadows skirting the rock band and forest until you find a forested talweg leading up toward the cliff, follow it more or less to reach the starting slab. Approximate GPS point: 42.807N / 1.365E
| L1 | 6a | 25 m | 5g | Slab with technical moves at the start, shift right on bulges then traverse a crevasse to reach the right groove and finally R#1. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | 2 | 15 m | 1g | Connection: leave right of the copse to return left under the grooves. R#2: 1 bolt at the start of L3 |
| L3 | 5c | 45 m | 6g | From the 12 mm bolt climb on the rocks and reach the spur above with the fine grooves, follow them to R#3 at the top of the slab. |
| L4 | 2 | 55 m | 1g | Connection: climb toward the slab with the grooves, pass right of the hazel where you find a bolt then reach a small 10 m slab with small grooves. R#4: one 12 mm bolt. |
| L5 | 5b | 50 m | 6g | Climb the small 10 m slab to reach the fine slab with the wide groove, follow it then ascend left to R#. |
| L6 | 5c | 45 m | 7g | Straight above the belay, grooves barely marked at first then smooth slab for a few metres, then an ascent to the right then straight on to find R#6. |
| L7 | 4c | 40 m | 5g | Traverse a grassy ledge by its right to reach the obvious grooves to climb several steps to the R# beside an ochre crack. |
| L8 | 5a | 35 m | 4g | Follow the grooves of the two following steps then traverse with ascent left under the large juniper to reach the left shoulder then straight on to R#8 (last belay). |
| L9 | Follow the grassy shoulder to the summit, mind the fall all the same, no equipment in place. |
Follow the south-west ridge then find the forest path back.
Watch out for the approach march which is a bit confusing and rough terrain at the end.
First ascent of the lower section on 26 and 27 May 2026, by Dorian Auboin and Kevin Rispa, sleeping on the face to make the most of the moment!
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What to show on the map
Mountain hut · 750 m (1,153 m below the summit) · 20 beds
Hostel
Unstaffed hut · 1,450 m (453 m below the summit) · 4 beds
Guest house
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Unstaffed hut · 1,450 m (453 m below the summit) · 8 beds
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Shelter
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Shelter · 1,695 m (208 m below the summit) · 6 beds
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Unstaffed hut · 2,100 m
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Unstaffed hut · 1,800 m (103 m below the summit)
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0
