West Truchas Peak (about 13,066 ft, 3,983 m) is the second-highest summit of the Truchas Peaks, the craggy group at the heart of the Pecos Wilderness in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of northern New Mexico, in Rio Arriba County and the Santa Fe National Forest. It stands at the end of the western arm of the Y-shaped Truchas ridge, about 0.6 km west-north-west of Middle Truchas and about 1.1 km north-north-west of Truchas Peak (South Truchas, about 13,108 ft), the highest point of the group.
On many maps this summit is labelled Middle Truchas Peak, while the true middle summit at the junction of the ridges is left unnamed or called "Medio" Truchas. Climbers use both naming schemes, so check the position, not just the name. West Truchas is usually climbed from the west through the Rio Quemado valley and its alpine bowl, often together with Middle Truchas and Truchas Peak along the exposed connecting ridge.
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The Truchas Peaks form a ridge shaped like a "Y" with a longer right arm. North Truchas Peak (about 13,024 ft) is at the end of the long north-eastern arm, Middle Truchas (about 13,050 ft, sometimes called "Medio") is where the arms meet, West Truchas ends the short north-western arm, and Truchas Peak, also called South Truchas, is at the foot of the "Y". SummitPost and PeakVisor use the name West Truchas for this summit; many maps, and some climbers, call it Middle Truchas. Sources give it between 13,058 and 13,066 ft (3,980–3,983 m) and a prominence of only about 250 ft (76 m) — it is a summit of the Truchas massif rather than a separate mountain.
Truchas is Spanish for "trout". The group lies about 20–26 miles (32–42 km) north-east of Santa Fe on the divide between the Rio Grande and the Pecos River: the western slopes drain to the Rio Medio, Rio Quemado and Rio de las Trampas. Truchas Peak is the second-highest mountain in New Mexico after Wheeler Peak if Wheeler's subsidiary summits are not counted. Unlike the broad, rounded summits common in northern New Mexico, the Truchas are steep and rocky, closer in character to the Colorado ranges to the north. Nearby rise Chimayosos Peak (3,914 m) 3.6 km to the east, Jicarilla Peak 4.6 km to the north and Pecos Baldy and East Pecos Baldy 7 km to the south.
The shortest approach starts at the Rio Quemado (Quemado Falls) trailhead above the village of Truchas, reached by State Road 76 from Española and then a maze of rough dirt roads; a high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended. The trail descends to the creek, follows it east past Quemado Falls and after about 3.5–4 miles (6 km) opens into an alpine bowl walled in by North, Middle and West Truchas — West Truchas is straight ahead to the south.
From the bowl, climb the steep north slopes of Middle Truchas and bear right (west) to a couloir at their western edge, often filled with snow. It tops out on West Truchas' north-west ridge, which leads to the summit. The route is Class 3 scrambling and takes a long day; with snow in the couloir an ice axe is recommended. Many parties continue south-east along the ridge for a little under half a mile to Middle Truchas and another half mile south to Truchas Peak; the round trip from the west to Truchas Peak is about 12 miles (19 km).
Be aware of the trailhead's reputation. It lies on land of the Truchas Land Grant, whose permission is needed to park, the road has been reported washed out about 2.5 miles short of the trailhead, and hikers have reported vandalism to parked cars here. Check current access with the Forest Service in Española before you go.
From the south, the Jacks Creek trailhead near Cowles in the upper Pecos valley leads by Trails 25, 257 and the Skyline Trail (No. 251) past Pecos Baldy and across the open Trailriders Wall to the eastern flank of the massif — about 24 miles (39 km) round trip to Truchas Peak; it is often done as a backpacking trip, though strong hikers have done it in a single day of about 13 hours. From the north, the Santa Barbara campground at the end of Forest Road 116 in the Carson National Forest leads by Trails 24 and 25 to a saddle east of the peaks above No Fish Lake: about 12 miles and 3,000 ft of climbing to the saddle alone, but a trailhead the Forest Service has recommended as a safer place to leave a car. The Skyline Trail also passes the Truchas Lakes in the cirque below North Truchas.
The climbing season is June to September. During the summer monsoon, especially July and August, moisture builds most afternoons into thunderstorms, and once you are on the ridges between the Truchas summits you are exposed to lightning with few ways off. Start before dawn and aim to leave the ridges by midday. Estimates from NASA POWER climate data give the summit a mean of about 10 °C (50 °F) in July and about −8 °C (18 °F) in January, with means above freezing only from May to October. Winter ascents are possible but avalanches are a constant danger.
There is no water on the upper mountain. On the western route you walk along the Rio Quemado up to the falls and the bowl, and OpenStreetMap shows a spring about 1.4 km south-east of the summit; on the eastern side the Truchas Lakes lie on the Skyline Trail. Treat all water. Camping is allowed, and the bowl below West Truchas is the classic camp for the western route, but Pecos Wilderness rules forbid camping close to lakes and streams, and in high fire danger fires or stoves may be restricted.
Assume there is none. OpenStreetMap shows no communication masts within 10 km of the summit, and the approach valleys are deep and far from towns. Do not count on a signal anywhere on the approaches: carry a satellite messenger or personal locator beacon, download maps beforehand and leave your plan with someone. In an emergency, 911 reaches dispatchers who alert search and rescue.
The Truchas lie in the Pecos Wilderness of the Santa Fe National Forest, with the Carson National Forest along the north. There are no fees and no entry permits, but motor vehicles are not allowed. Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep graze the high slopes, and elk, mule deer, black bear, marmots and pikas live in the forests and talus below.
In August 1962 the Los Alamos scientist Robert Spaulding crashed his light plane on the south-west face of Truchas Peak. He was found alive in the wreckage after more than 72 hours, and a combined air and ground rescue was sent into the rugged country to bring him out.
How high is West Truchas Peak? About 13,058–13,066 ft (3,980–3,983 m), the second-highest summit of the Truchas Peaks after Truchas Peak (about 13,108 ft).
Is West Truchas the same as Middle Truchas? On many maps it is labelled Middle Truchas Peak. Climbers who call it West Truchas use "Middle" or "Medio" for the summit where the ridges meet, about 0.6 km to the east-south-east.
How difficult is it? Class 3 scrambling on the final couloir and ridge; an ice axe is useful when there is snow.
How long does it take? A long day from the Rio Quemado trailhead: about 3.5–4 miles to the bowl, then the steep climb; the round trip to Truchas Peak over West and Middle Truchas is about 12 miles. Approaches from the south or north are much longer — about 24 miles round trip from Jacks Creek.
Is there water? Not on the upper mountain. The Rio Quemado runs along the western approach and the Truchas Lakes are on the east side; treat all water.
Is there cell phone service? Practically none — no masts are mapped within 10 km. Carry a satellite messenger; 911 works wherever any network reaches.
When is the best time to climb? June to September, starting very early because of afternoon thunderstorms in July and August.
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