Mountaineering Routes · Ober Gabelhorn

This is one of the classic alpine routes on Ober Gabelhorn and is commonly referred to as the Arête du Couloir. It is a serious mixed climb on the north-east side, combining snow, ice, and rock on a steep ridge line. The route is technically demanding and condition-dependent, with objective hazards from loose rock and cornices. It is generally considered a more direct and harder line than the normal route. The climb requires solid alpine experience and careful route-finding. Descent is often made by the normal route when conditions and logistics allow.

This is the standard and best-known route on Ober Gabelhorn. It ascends the west side via the West Couloir to the West Ridge, then follows the ridge to the summit. The route is a classic alpine mixed climb with snow, ice, and rock, and is usually less severe than the north-east ridge. It still requires good conditions because the couloir can be exposed to rockfall and the ridge can be corniced. The route is long and committing, with route-finding that can become complex in poor visibility. It is the normal ascent line described in major alpine guidebooks.

The South-West Ridge is a documented alpine route on Ober Gabelhorn and is generally regarded as a serious mixed ridge climb. It is less commonly used than the normal west-side route, but it is established in the literature. The route involves sustained exposed climbing on rock and snow, with difficulties increasing in poor conditions. It is a committing line with limited margin for error. Objective hazards include loose rock, cornices, and changing snow conditions. It is suitable only for experienced alpinists comfortable on steep alpine ridges.