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Arête du Couloir (North-East Ridge)

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This is one of the classic alpine routes on Ober Gabelhorn and is commonly referred to as the Arête du Couloir. It is a serious mixed climb on the north-east side, combining snow, ice, and rock on a steep ridge line. The route is technically demanding and condition-dependent, with objective hazards from loose rock and cornices. It is generally considered a more direct and harder line than the normal route. The climb requires solid alpine experience and careful route-finding. Descent is often made by the normal route when conditions and logistics allow.

Route Outline

Arben bivouac or Mountet area -> approach to the north-east side of Ober Gabelhorn
Climb the Couloir and gain the North-East Ridge
Follow the ridge over mixed rock and snow to the summit ridge
Continue to the summit of Ober Gabelhorn
Descend by the same route or via the normal route depending on conditions

More routes on Ober Gabelhorn

This is the standard and best-known route on Ober Gabelhorn. It ascends the west side via the West Couloir to the West Ridge, then follows the ridge to the summit. The route is a classic alpine mixed climb with snow, ice, and rock, and is usually less severe than the north-east ridge. It still requires good conditions because the couloir can be exposed to rockfall and the ridge can be corniced. The route is long and committing, with route-finding that can become complex in poor visibility. It is the normal ascent line described in major alpine guidebooks.
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South-West Ridge

4A | D | IV
The South-West Ridge is a documented alpine route on Ober Gabelhorn and is generally regarded as a serious mixed ridge climb. It is less commonly used than the normal west-side route, but it is established in the literature. The route involves sustained exposed climbing on rock and snow, with difficulties increasing in poor conditions. It is a committing line with limited margin for error. Objective hazards include loose rock, cornices, and changing snow conditions. It is suitable only for experienced alpinists comfortable on steep alpine ridges.
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