Mountaineering Routes · Dent d'Herens

This is the standard and best-known route on Dent d'Herens. It is a long alpine climb on glacier, snow, and mixed terrain, with objective hazards from crevasses and changing snow conditions. The route is generally considered the normal ascent from the Swiss side via the Schönbiel Hut. It involves sustained mountaineering rather than technical rock climbing, but route-finding can be important in poor visibility. Conditions on the glacier and upper slopes strongly affect difficulty and safety. The descent is usually made by the ascent route.

The south-west ridge is a documented alpine route on Dent d'Herens and is more serious than the normal route. It combines snow, rock, and mixed climbing on a long mountain ridge. The route is exposed and can require careful route-finding, especially where the ridge narrows or the rock is poor. It is typically undertaken in stable conditions and with solid alpine experience. Objective dangers include loose rock, snow instability, and cornices near the crest. It is a more committing line than the standard glacier ascent.

The north face of Dent d'Herens is a recognized serious alpine route. It is a steep and committing line on snow and ice, with conditions that can vary greatly from season to season. The face is exposed to avalanche risk, icefall, and rapidly changing weather. It demands strong mixed and ice-climbing ability as well as sound judgment in route selection. This is a much more difficult and objective-hazard-prone ascent than the normal route. It is generally only suitable for experienced alpinists in good conditions.