Pick a Peak - list of mountains Home
← Dent d'Herens

South-West Ridge

4A | D | IV Edit route
The south-west ridge is a documented alpine route on Dent d'Herens and is more serious than the normal route. It combines snow, rock, and mixed climbing on a long mountain ridge. The route is exposed and can require careful route-finding, especially where the ridge narrows or the rock is poor. It is typically undertaken in stable conditions and with solid alpine experience. Objective dangers include loose rock, snow instability, and cornices near the crest. It is a more committing line than the standard glacier ascent.

Route Outline

Approach from the south-west side of Dent d'Herens
Gain the south-west ridge from glacier or snow slopes
Climb the ridge on mixed and rocky terrain
Continue on the upper ridge to the summit
Descend by the same line or via the normal route if conditions require

More routes on Dent d'Herens

Normal Route from the Schönbiel Hut

3A | AD | III
This is the standard and best-known route on Dent d'Herens. It is a long alpine climb on glacier, snow, and mixed terrain, with objective hazards from crevasses and changing snow conditions. The route is generally considered the normal ascent from the Swiss side via the Schönbiel Hut. It involves sustained mountaineering rather than technical rock climbing, but route-finding can be important in poor visibility. Conditions on the glacier and upper slopes strongly affect difficulty and safety. The descent is usually made by the ascent route.
Details →

North Face

5A | TD | V
The north face of Dent d'Herens is a recognized serious alpine route. It is a steep and committing line on snow and ice, with conditions that can vary greatly from season to season. The face is exposed to avalanche risk, icefall, and rapidly changing weather. It demands strong mixed and ice-climbing ability as well as sound judgment in route selection. This is a much more difficult and objective-hazard-prone ascent than the normal route. It is generally only suitable for experienced alpinists in good conditions.
Details →
Add route