North face — Dent de Broc, 登攀ルート | Pick a Peak

North face

Dent de Broc · 1 829 m · Vaud and Freiburger Prealps · スイス

標高
900–1 829 m
フランス式アルパイングレード
D 難しい
FED4
方角
北, 北西
コミットメント
II
支点の整備
P2

説明

Face N

Via ferrata equipped exiting at the cross.

A beautiful route to learn via ferrata climbing.

Approach · 1h30

Park at the bend before Grosse Gîte. Follow the red hiking trail to the Grosses Ciernes hut. Take in the view of Lac de la Gruyère. Head diagonally towards the large gully with a few alders/willows at the bottom. Climb this gully aiming for the via ferrata line rather to the left. Do not head into the forest to the right...

Route

L160°50 mOne pitch going straight up under the M3+. A few full-earth steps without difficulty. Belays scattered about on the firs.
L2M3+60 mNice pitch with spits and an intermediate belay (linked with cord and carabiner). Towards the end head to the firs. Belay to the left.
L370°50 mTo the right, then pass a step with a piton then belay on a tree.
L470°40 mTo the left then take to the right a crack heading to the cross. Belay on it.

Descent · 2h00

Either by the summer trail, or by rappel via the south face route from the cross. From the col climb up through the notch at point 1634 to descend towards Grosses Ciernes.

装備

  • 50 m rope or better 60 m
  • 10 quickdraws including some extensible
  • A few slings for the firs
  • A few wedges/friends but not required
  • Crampons/ice axes

写真

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10 km以内の山小屋、5 km以内の宿とキャンプ場

周辺の山小屋・宿泊施設

データ © OpenStreetMap

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    Dent de Brocのほかのルート

    ↗ 1000 m

    Park as best you can near the Pont or at Les Marches. Parking is forbidden at Pont qui Branle, as a reminder.

    詳細 →

    West ridge

    AD+ 5c
    ↗ 1130 m

    From Epagny (TPF bus), then on foot via the Pont qui Branle, follow the hiking trail through Les Combes then join the notch pt. 1634 in traverse from the chalet les Combes-Dessus.

    詳細 →

    South face

    TD− 6b
    ↗ 829 m

    From Motélon: 1 h 15

    詳細 →

    出典: camptocamp.org · テキストはCC BY-SA 4.0