North face — Dent de Broc, vía de escalada | Pick a Peak

North face

Dent de Broc · 1 829 m · Vaud and Freiburger Prealps · Suiza

Editar vía
Altitud
900–1 829 m
Grado alpino francés
D difícil
FED4
Orientación
N, NO
Compromiso
II
Equipamiento
P2

Descripción

Face N

Via ferrata equipped exiting at the cross.

A beautiful route to learn via ferrata climbing.

Approach · 1h30

Park at the bend before Grosse Gîte. Follow the red hiking trail to the Grosses Ciernes hut. Take in the view of Lac de la Gruyère. Head diagonally towards the large gully with a few alders/willows at the bottom. Climb this gully aiming for the via ferrata line rather to the left. Do not head into the forest to the right...

Route

L160°50 mOne pitch going straight up under the M3+. A few full-earth steps without difficulty. Belays scattered about on the firs.
L2M3+60 mNice pitch with spits and an intermediate belay (linked with cord and carabiner). Towards the end head to the firs. Belay to the left.
L370°50 mTo the right, then pass a step with a piton then belay on a tree.
L470°40 mTo the left then take to the right a crack heading to the cross. Belay on it.

Descent · 2h00

Either by the summer trail, or by rappel via the south face route from the cross. From the col climb up through the notch at point 1634 to descend towards Grosses Ciernes.

Material

  • 50 m rope or better 60 m
  • 10 quickdraws including some extensible
  • A few slings for the firs
  • A few wedges/friends but not required
  • Crampons/ice axes

Fotos

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Refugios a menos de 10 km, casas rurales y campings a menos de 5 km

Refugios y alojamiento cercanos

Datos © OpenStreetMap

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    Más vías en Dent de Broc

    ↗ 1000 m

    Park as best you can near the Pont or at Les Marches. Parking is forbidden at Pont qui Branle, as a reminder.

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    AD+ 5c
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    Acceso

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    cara sur

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    ↗ 829 m

    Desde Motélon : 1h15

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    Fuente: camptocamp.org · texto bajo licencia CC BY-SA 4.0