Ascent:
The first ascent was made by Samuel A. Scoville and Julian Whittlesey on 08 February 1930.
From the visitor Center, take the trail north that leads to Tuckerman Ravine. After 1.7 miles of ascent and after crossing a bridge, take a trail to the right (sign indicating Lyon Head Trail) leading to Huntington Ravine. The Lyon Head Trail climbs to the left after 200 m. ¨Continue on the trail that leads to an intersection with signs indicating avalanche hazards, the Havard Cabin (Refuge) is located 50 m to the right (1h, alt. 1020 m). To reach Huntington Ravine, continue straight ahead. The trail ends at the bottom of the cirque of Huntington Ravine.
The different routes of the cirque are distinguished from left to right (general photo to come):
South Gully: 1. The first Gully on the left, mainly in snow with a little ice.
Odell’s Gully: 2-4+ II. Fairly wide cascade that divides into 3 parts.
Pinnacle Gully: 3 III, to the left of the obvious Central Gully. Pinnacle Gully is not visible from below, it is hidden by a rocky spur in a couloir.
Central Gully: 2 II, the obvious couloir goulotte to the right of a rocky spur, in the middle on the left side of the cirque.
Diagonal Gully 2 II, not visible from below, starts halfway up Yale Gully and goes diagonally to the left.
Yale Gully in the center on the right side of the cirque.
Damnation Gully 2-3 III and North Gully 2-3 III starts on the right.
Pinnacle Gully
Climb the snow slopes in the direction of Odell’s Gully and continue climbing to the right in the direction of Central Gully. Pinnacle Gully is hidden behind a spur.
The first pitch is the "crux": 50 m of ice at grade 3. After that, the couloir eases a little, 150 m of 2, ice and snow. You reach slopes that lead easily to the summit of Huntington Ravine. You arrive on a small platform below the summit of Mount Washington.
Bibliography:
An Ice Climber’s guide to Northern New England, sud. Peter Lewis et Rick Wilcox, Ed. TMC Books, Conway
Descent
There are several possibilities:
1. Reach the Alpine Garden Trail to the west (300 m away and almost no elevation gain). The trail is marked by large cairns placed every 50 m. Follow the Alpine Garden Trail south until you reach the Lyon Head trail (cairn). Take left (east) and descend the steep Lyon Head Trail. This trail rejoins the trail used on the ascent to reach Huntington Ravine. It is long but easy, however one must not underestimate the difficulty of finding and following the trails in bad weather.
2. Descend again by the Central Gully which is reached on the platform by taking right for 300 m. Fast and allows you to reach the starting point. However, despite the very very large cairn marking the summit of Central Gully, the start can prove difficult to find.
3. Descend by a mixed Odell’s – South Gully. According to the topo, it is easy and fast, but we did not take it.
Depending on the weather, it may be necessary to have expedition gear. For the technical part, 8 ice screws are enough.
The difficulty comes from the weather conditions. The altitude is not high. But Mount Washington has an almost polar climate. The weather station at the summit has measured the fastest winds on the planet. The wind is almost permanent and temperatures can be very cold. In mild weather conditions, the route is a pleasant outing with little difficulty. In normal weather conditions, the route must be considered a winter climb with everything that implies in terms of equipment.
All weather information is available at the Visitor Center.
Access:
It is in the northeast of the United States next to Quebec in New England.
www.mapquest.com
From North Conway Village, take 16 North and drive 20 miles north to reach the AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor Center on the left.
Accommodation:
Havard Cabin below Huntington Ravine (see ascent). 16 places, no reservation, $15. Comfort is minimal, wood heating after 16h. It is necessary to bring a sleeping bag and a sleeping pad. Stove and cookware are available. If you want to pitch a tent next to the cabin, it will still cost you a few dollars.
The valley motels are expensive.
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It is in the northeast of the United States next to Quebec in New England.
Detalles →Fuente: camptocamp.org · texto bajo licencia CC BY-SA 4.0
