Ascent:
The first ascent was made by Robert Underhill and Lincoln O’Brien in 1929.
From the visitor center, take the track north that leads to Tuckerman Ravine. After 1.7 miles of ascent and after crossing a bridge, take a track to the right (sign indicating Lyon Head Trail) leading to Huntington Ravine. The Lyon Head Trail climbs left after 200 m. ¨Continue on the track that leads to an intersection with signs indicating avalanche hazards, the Havard Cabin (refuge) is located 50 m to the right (1h, alt. 1020 m). To reach Huntington Ravine, continue straight ahead. The track ends at the bottom of the cirque of Huntington Ravine.
The different routes of the cirque are distinguished from left to right (general photo to come):
South Gully: 1. The first gully on the left, mainly in snow with a little ice.
Odell’s Gully: 2-4+ II. Fairly wide cascade that splits into 3 sections.
Pinnacle Gully: 3 III, to the left of the obvious Central Gully. Pinnacle Gully is not visible from below, it is hidden by a rocky spur in a couloir.
Central Gully: 2 II, the obvious couloir goulotte to the right of a rocky spur, in the middle on the left side of the cirque.
Diagonal Gully 2 II, not visible from below, starts halfway up Yale Gully and goes diagonally to the left.
Yale Gully in the center on the right side of the cirque.
Damnation Gully 2-3 III and North Gully 2-3 III starts on the right.
Spot on the right side of the cirque, two steep goulottes that start almost at the same place.
Climb the snow slopes toward Central Gully (often tracked) and traverse right, pass under Yale Gully and climb to reach the base of the goulottes Damnation Gully and North Gully. Damnation is the one on the left.
Climb the couloir (snow slope at 45°) and pass 2 steeper steps (max 70°) in ice. Continue by the easiest line through sometimes mixed steps to reach the small platform below the summit of Mount Washington but above Central Ravine.
Bibliography:
An Ice Climber’s guide to Northern New England, sud. Peter Lewis et Rick Wilcox, Ed. TMC Books, Conway
Descent
There are several possibilities:
1. Reach west the Alpine Garden Trail path (300 m away and almost no elevation gain). The path is marked by large cairns placed every 50 m. Follow the Alpine Garden Trail south until reaching the Lyon Head trail (cairn). Take left (east) and descend the steep Lyon Head Trail. This trail rejoins the track used on the ascent to reach Huntington Ravine. It is long but easy, however one must not underestimate the difficulty of finding and following the trails in bad weather.
2. Descend again by Central Gully which is reached on the left on the platform by following the gully. Fast and allows you to return to the starting point. However, despite the very very large cairn and the sign marking the summit of Central Gully, the start can prove difficult to find.
3. Descend by a mixed Odell’s – South Gully. According to the topo, it is easy and fast, but we did not take it.
Depending on the weather, it may be necessary to have expedition gear.
It is possible to bring a few ice screws and a rope if you want to pitch it out.
Damnation Gully is only slightly harder than North Gully.
The difficulty comes from the weather conditions. The altitude is not high. But Mount Washington has an almost polar climate. The weather station at the summit has recorded the fastest winds on the planet. The wind is almost permanent and temperatures can be very cold. In mild weather conditions, the route is an enjoyable outing with little difficulty. In normal weather conditions, the route should be considered a winter climb with everything that implies in terms of equipment.
All weather information is available at the Visitor Center.
Access:
It is in the northeast of the United States next to Quebec in New England.
http://www.mapquest.com
From North Conway Village, take 16 North and drive 20 miles north to reach the AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor Center on the left.
Accommodation:
Havard Cabin below Huntington Ravine (see ascent). 16 places, no reservation, $15. Comfort is minimal, wood heating after 4 p.m. It is necessary to bring a sleeping bag and a sleeping pad. A stove and cookware are available. If you want to pitch a tent next to the cabin, it will still cost you a few dollars.
The motels in the valley are expensive.
Elige una fecha para ver quién va
It is in the northeast of the United States next to Quebec in New England.
Detalles →
Fuente: camptocamp.org · texto bajo licencia CC BY-SA 4.0
