Via Manera

Approach · 1.5-2 hours from the Dalmazzi hut

Same approach as Le fond de l'air:
From the Dalmazzi hut, follow the path that goes to the catchment, then go up the moraines in the direction of the glacier N du Triolet. The path becomes more difficult to follow as one approaches the glacier which one tackles directly on the flat. Set foot on the glacier and go up towards the face (crevasses). The snow makes it possible to reach the scree just under the start and that we go up. The start is quite characteristic, a large dihedral that goes off to the right of the Tour Rouge.

Route · 4-5 hours

L#1 | 30m | 2-3 | Along the smooth walls of the bastion, along short walls with ledges, up left to the last ledge under the steep wall with a gap.
L#2 | 35m | 6a+ | Along the wall with the crack upwards (2 pitons) to a small ledge (10m, 6a+). Then along the wide crack up-right behind the bend in the wall (10m, 5c). Then along the same crack to its end on a easy terrain (15m, 4c). Just above the place where the crack ends on the right there is an anchor of the route "Reglette da ballo", here it is convenient to belay a partner.
L#3 | 55m | 4b | From the anchor up along easy rocks to the big terrace under the steep bastion (20m, 2). On the bastion you can see the anchor of the route "Reglette da ballo". From the terrace to the left, bypassing the bastion, head in the direction of the large flake (15m, 3). Go around the flake to the left and reach the ledge above it (15m, 4b). An anchor can be set up on the left side of the ledge.
L#4 | 45m | 4 | From the ledge, in the same direction as the previous pitch, up over the bend. Then turn to the right and along easy rocks out to the top of the bastion (25m 2), which towered above the terrace (L3). From here left-up along short walls under monolithic overhanging rocks (20m, 3-4). Under the cornices is a big ledge, here is the anchor of the route "Le fond de l'air".
On this section it is difficult to organize the belay.
L#5 | 45m | 5b | From the anchor to the right up over the bend to the big ledge (20m, 3). From there along the leftmost crack up-right (piton) to the place where the thin crack turns into a wide one and changes direction, going straight up. Move up the crack to the end of it (25m, 5b). Towards the top the crack widens to a small chimney and ends. Here on the left is a small ledge and an anchor of the route "Le fond de l'air".
L#6 | 35m | 4a | From the anchor on the big corner-couloir upwards (25m, 2-3, a lot of loose rocks). Higher the angle becomes steeper, continue up to the place where the angle becomes more steep and changes to a wide chimney (10m, 4a). Here is a small ledge. There is an anchor on two pitons, you can improve it with your own points.
L#7 | 40m | 5b | From the ledge on the right side of the chimney up to its end (25m, 5b). Then on easy broken rocks out to the rocky saddle, then come under the base of the monolithic wall with many flakes (15m). At the base of the wall there is an anchor of the route "Le fond de l'air".
L#8 | 35m | 5b | From the anchor up the wall to the bolt (8m, 4b). From it up-right along the flakes to reach the edge of the buttress (15m, 5b). On it up to the big horizontal terrace, which forms the shoulder of the buttress (10m, 3). The anchor is under the base of the next steep rise of this buttress.
L#9 | 40m | 5a | From the shoulder up to the bolt, then to the anchor of the route "Le fond de l'air", from it up to the next bolt (7m). From it traverse to the right behind the bend to the base of the corner (7m). At the corner up to the end of it (10m) again go to the edge of the buttress. Here on the big stone, on its left side, is an anchor of the route "Le fond de l'air". From it along the corner on the right side of the buttress up to its end, then a little more up under the monolithic wall of the buttress, go around it on the left and reach a ledge with big blocks on the left side of the buttress (15m). Here the anchor is on your gear.
Above, on the monolithic rib of the buttress, the anchorr of the route "La fond de l'air", but it is not convenient to belay a partner on it.
L#10 | 100m | 1-3 | Along the ledge forward to its end (10m), then up-right to the buttress (10m, 3). Go to its right side and moving on big blocks upwards go around a small gendarme on the right. Then by easy rocks on the left side of the buttress go around the summit tower and climb it from the left side (15m, 3).

Descent · 1.5-2 hours to the starting point

The descent is partly along the route of the ascent, partly using the anchors of the neighboring routes.

From the summit return to anchor R9. From here abseil 45m, using the anchor of the route "Le fond de l'air", to the anchor above the shoulder (see L9). From it, abseil 40m to anchor R7. Then abseiling 40m into the chimney to the anchor R6 (on pitons). Then 2 abseils 35m each at the anchors of the route "Le fond de l'air" (R5 and R4). From anchor R4 abseil 55m to the "Reglette da ballo" on the bastion (see L3). From there the abseil is 25m to anchor R2. From R2 abseil 50 m to the ledge at the start of the route (R0).

• Rope 2×60 m
• Set of friends 7-8pcs (additionally it is recommended to duplicate the middle sizes)
• 5-7 nuts of small to medium size
• 8-10 slings 60cm
• 2 slings 180cm (for the anchors)
• Crampons and ice-axe for approach

First ascent: August 5, 1979 - Ugo Manera, Enrico Pessiva