Briljantina

Approach · 1h

Starting from the parking lot just below the saddle (after rock fall, you cannot drive any further). You need to pay 10 euros to get there, can stay as long as you want.
keep walking along the road or use the obvious (marked) walking trails that go to Mangart. At some point you have to decide to start traversing towards the base of the wall. This can be rather tricky in cloudy conditions. In clear sky conditions you can more easily choose the path that seems most convenient. There are no cairns or obvious signs... If you keep following the trails to the via ferrata parts you're probably too far :). Probably best to start traversing before the first smaller rock face.
If you're too late for the upper parking lot, there is a second one just before the tunnel which only adds a couple of minutes.

Ascent · 5h30

L# | 6a | 60m |
L# | 6a | 60m |
L# | 6a+ | 40m |
L# | 6a | 30m |
L# | 5b | 20m |
L# | 1 | 10m | can easily be linked with previous pitch. 1 bolt in traverse? take care to not start next pitch going straight up from the anchor of L5
L# | 5c/6b | 50m | crux pitch in dihedral. Can easily be aided.
L# | 6a+ | 30m | Mostly traversing to the right in the beginning.
L# | 1 | 10m | Anchor around the obvious pillar. Can be linked with previous pitch but maybe less obvious, take care of ropedrag!. no bolts?
L# | 5c | 40m |

Descent · 1h

• Keep scrambling up the grassy ledges to get to obvious trails. should be very easy. Guidebook describes 'cross right' but just going up seems fine and easiest?
• keep following the obvious trails till you get to the marked trail (via ferrata)
• follow the ferrata to your liking (up to Mangart or down to base).

15 draws and the normal multipitch gear. Take at least 60m rope to avoid having to simul! When trapped on the route (weather), you'll have to leave some carabiners to rappel (anchors are plaquettes, no chains).

Opened by Maja Krajnik and Uroš Rupar in 2017.