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Easiest route on of one of the highest mountains in the eastern Kici Alay Chain. There are no glaciers on the south side (anymore), but snow may still be present until late summer. In the north there is a vast glacier area. Nice views to Pik Lenin in Trans Alai (=Pamir).
Unfortunately there are many coal mines in the area which provide easy acces but also significant environmental destruction... Though close to the area of Batken, eastern Kici Alay seems to be safe for travellers.
Leave the mine road on a suitable place and head up the face in the direction of the mountain, first flat than increasingly steeper. Generally the right side of the face is steeper than the left, but there is the higher starting point. The face forms a little valley in the middle part. There is still some ice under the srcee. Turn left here (steep and awkward rocks, mixed with some snow) to gain the ridge to the left.
Some easy steps of rock climbing lead to the false summit. From there the nearly main ridge leads nort-west wards to the main summit, snow and scree under thick rime ice.
Crampons, ice axe depending on conditions
High alitude and incredbly clear air make Pik Gesart to a great and not so difficulty accessabile view point.
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Источник: camptocamp.org · текст под лицензией CC BY-SA 4.0