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- From Torino hut
Cross the Col des Flambeaux - NW, 3407m – then descend diagonally to the NW under the Aiguilles de Toules and traverse to the foot of the face.
- From the Aiguille du Midi
Descend the classic Vallée Blanche via the Col du Gros Rognon, pass under the Pointe Adolphe Rey and so to the foot of the face.
L#1-2 | M4, 80° | 1st pitch as for Delafosse-Perroux
L# | |To the right by snow/ice covered slabs, (very awkward in bad conditions). Belay on pegs on the left.
L# | M4, 70° | Enclosed gully. Belay on slings.
L# | M4, 60° | Enclosed gully. Belay on slings
L#~ Exit to Pointe 3648m: follow the ridge to the right, until a pleasant teracce at the foot of the summit block.
Down climb or a short abseil, (abseil point needs improving) to reach the top of pitch 5 .
The grade M4 is for perfect conditions, (there was a lot of ice in Autumn 2014). In bad, mixed conditions it is a lot more sustained, especially on pitches 1 and 2.
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Источник: camptocamp.org · текст под лицензией CC BY-SA 4.0